I am having z axis problems. I can set set z axis zero. I can move it up and down via button control.
But in g-code all plunges go to at least 1/8 of an inch
For example:
G1 X2.30969 Y1.16503 Z-0.01758 F30.4
results in a plunge of -0.125
Any idea why?
what Z-axis are you using, and what is your pitch set to in ground control?
Hi I use the z axis that comes with the standard kit back in June. I have the Rigid router and the pitch is the default setting for ground control. 3.13 I think.
Anyway if I set the zero exactly 0.125 above work piece it works properly, which doesn’t make sense to me.
Did you maybe forget to zero your Z-axis properly before starting the cut?
Otherwise, please share your entire gcode file, it’s possible that you have an offset set up.
No I reset to zero on each test.
Here is the shortest test:
G20
G90
G1 Z0.15000 F9.0
G0 X1.06895 Y2.21076
G1 Z-0.00833 F9.0
G1 X1.06895 Y0.31502 F30.0
G20
G90
G1 Z0.15000 F9.0
G0 X0.00000 Y0.00000
G4 P0.1
yes, but have you defined zero? if your defined zero is wrong, then everything will be offset by that wrong value.
Yes I define zero before every test.
As I said on the last one I set zero as 0.125 in above wood and it works properly but that isnt how it should work.
It could be your setup. I have seen on my machine that the “regular” first generation z-axis was pulled in by the bit. The slop I had in the z-axis allowed that to happen. Now I am using the 3D-printed router base and the z-axis is very reliable.
I am not sure what you mean by “pulled in” could you explain this?
the z axis is not good, it must be modifed. @ minimum a bungee to reduce backlash is
needed. other solutions below:
http://maslowcommunitygarden.org/z-axis-for-AEG-router.html
Thanks I already use a bungee. The problem is the same each time. The machine measures 1/8 lower than zero. I do not know how this applies to slop.
the pitch to the router is about 3mm. (1/8)" so that means you have enough slop to turn the shaft 360 degrees before it actually starts moving. one the of the threads above talks about adding extra shims to reduce this issue.
Some people live with it and just modify the design they are cutting for it to come out correct,
others will modify the router so it’s more percise, just really depends on what is easier or you.
can you take a video of you zeroing it and then of what it does when you try to
cut?
David Lang
I tried looking at the z axis clamp on the base and found it had saw dust in it that was preventing the router to seat.
Cleaned and adjusted it. Cut three signs- then the router jumped out of the zaxis clamp.
I think I need a better base and clamp.
I am able to get pretty good v bit carving when it functions correct- but I cannot handle it screwing up every two or 3 days,
Honestly I think the problem is with the weak little spring in the z axis clamp (orange button) that just does not hold.
I used downcutting bits and crosscutting bits. Since the z-axis in the original configuration has some slop due to the connector with the orange spring thing to the screw as well as the movement of the screw itself, the bit was pulled towards the board when cutting. This was quite significant in my case, more than 1/8" in total. I couldn’t get reproducible z-height with that setup.
Now I am using the 3D-printed router holder and everything is pretty accurate. Fantastic upgrade.
Check out this link.
Works like a charm, although it takes a little to get it printed and setup.