I had one of the 3d corner mount prints from the non-shop pop its top so I decided
to reinforce them a bit by doubling the thickness on the top face, adding some rounded bevels to the inner pocket in hopes of giving it more holding power from the walls to the lid and added some ribbing wrapping from the side walls across the top surface. I did have to sand the hole opening just a bit to get the pin to slide smoothly in and out but it didn’t take much.
I also recommend printing with 100% infill, so they are solid and dont have “support” inside.
Thank you for posting these.
I was just about to get the originals printed for my build.
But now I will get these ones instead.
I also read good idea to do a Carbon Fiber filament.
Unfortunately my printer is down so I will order from somewhere.
I’m trying printing this in regular PLA, with 5 wall loops, 15% gyroid infill, I designed it deliberately to avoid there being any need for support material.
This is my favorite corner mount design I’ve seen yet. Super solid, and I like that the frame itself is providing reinforcement for the entire mount.
When I printed this I noticed that the lag bolt would have been super close to the edge of my frame, and probably would have scarred the outside, if it grabbed at all.
I also noticed this design wouldn’t work with the fancypins from the notshop, so I modified it further to shorten the height of the mount and add a lip for the pin to catch.
I haven’t finished setting up my M4, so I don’t have any calibration numbers handy to see if shortening the size of the mount causes any issues. But overall I’m pretty happy with the result. I don’t have any experience with modeling, so this was a great learning experience for me. Thanks for the design @md8n
I would use a triangle piece of ply to shore up your joints on each side. I don’t think that metal bracket is going to remove all the flex. I do like the look of the bracket.
Yeah - I’m a loooong way from the not-shop, so I didn’t even think about things like that.
Yeah - if you drilled right through the corner mount into the frame it would be. I wanted to allow for that, but my expectation was that people wouldn’t drill all the way through the corner of their frame.
The real objective with that placement was to get the anchor point as close to the limits of the frame as possible. Grabbing maybe a couple of extra centimeters/inch to increase the effective frame size.
Also I’m using M10 bolts rather than lag bolts, so they’ll have less wear and tear on the corner mounts
Now that I’ve finished assembling my M4, I realized I destroyed the spacing for the belt anchors in my fancypin remix. That’s what I get for printing all 4 corner mounts before testing the fit
Revisiting this design, I realize that there’s no way it’s going to fit the
recommended 10-20mm fancy pins from the notshop without significant reduction in the lip thinkness, which will probably compromise the strength of the mount quite a bit.
I’ve gone ahead and fixed my corner mount remix for anyone still trying to use a fancypin with this design, with the caveat that you’ll need to use the 10mm-31mm fancypin instead of the 20mm length. I don’t have that length of pin handy to test it with, so use this at your own risk!
