Would it be ill advised to put a beam in between the two protrusions holding up the spoil board? It would make it easier for me to mount the cutting piece. As it stands now, cutting 18" off a 4x8 sheet to make the sled makes it just short enough to pass through in between.
Not a question – but she’s ready for the rest of the hardware! (don’t mind the stormtrooper – I’m keeping it around to later turn into a costume for my 8 month old daughter)
What if you just levelled off the feet? Get a ruler or something level to the floor and mark off against the assembled frame and cut parallel to the floor? Might be a PITA with the frame assembled? Or casters as you say to make it easier to move.
Some 2x connecting the frame members is a good idea as it will keep the spoilboard from warping also. As for casters I would put a 2x connecting the legs front to back and attach the casters to that.
The original frame design had a beam across the bottom to hold the plywood but for the new design, it was removed to make it easier to cut all the way through the bottom of the workpiece. I’m going to be building a different frame (when I get around to it) and what I’m looking to do is to install a bottom beam (not protuding) and drilling a series of 1/2-inch holes in it. Then, I’ll insert short stubbies of 1/2-inch dowels into those holes, as needed, to provide support to the workpiece.
Zappa’s my favorite composer, so yes. I’ve had Zappa license plates when I lived in NH (+ZAPPA+), VA (FZ UMRK, for Frank Zappa and the Utility Muffin Research Kitchen) and now in Ohio with FR ZAPPA (which I’ve heard called “Father Zappa”).
To make it easier to cut all the way through the bottom! That makes sense now. I like the dowel idea. I’m going to look to see what’s practical with leftover scrap wood I have laying around.
You could also screw in some “arms” that pivot at the bottom of the existing bottom rail and swing them in and out as needed. Lot’s of options available.
Is anyone else experiencing this type of chipping on their frame feet? I was thinking to stick some locking casters on there.
not a bad idea, it’s expected that the corners will chip a bit
Would it be ill advised to put a beam in between the two protrusions holding up the spoil board? It would make it easier for me to mount the cutting piece. As it stands now, cutting 18" off a 4x8 sheet to make the sled makes it just short enough to pass through in between.
rather than a beam, make an L-shaped piece that you can anchor to the bottom of
the crossmember and slide out to the right distance to be flush with the
workpiece so that it can support the sled as it goes below the bottom of the
workpiece.
there are 2x connecting the frame members, where do you think more are needed?
for the feet, you can also scribe them to the floor and they will last longer
(take a 2x4 and lay it on the floor, mark the legs even with the top of this 2x4
and then cut off all legs at this line and they will sit flat on the floor.
I like the build. You are the first, besides @bar, I have seen who has built the standard frame (not the one with the bolted top bar). Looking back, how do you think this top bar mount compares to the alternative, bolted option?
