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Advanced Frame Design


#1

Q: How is the Advanced Frame Design, Advanced over the “Standard” frame design?

A: simple answer - It is for users that want to do larger materials then the 3/4 inch (Sheet Wood Materials, 29 mm, 23/32 thick).

It implies more complexity, more cost, & possibly more problems with calibration and use.

Software Team * Can you consider a option to flag your using and advance frame? This could be important for troubleshooting / supporting future frame builds. That is is a user has an advanced frame and it’s set for cutting 2x4 material . IE. 1.5 inch material but they forget to adjust it and are at 15 degree angle “new” problems related to the advanced design may be introduced that ALL Standard users would never encounter.

I have created this thread to break out discussion of Advance Vs Standard.

Let it fly peeps :slight_smile:

Thank you


UniStrut Frame designs
Counterweight / bungee cord improvement idea
#2

a piece of unistrut and a unistrut angle makes a great way to adjust the top beam in and out, see the discussion at UniStrut Frame designs.


#3

I have seen it. Please move it here. This is where the Fork of the Advance Design belongs. I sent you a PM did you get it?

Thank you


#4

Here is the frame I’ve designed for the Maslow. I’ll need to fine tune it when my kit arrives, but this is what I have at this point. I know, I know, the first thing that comes to mind is “this is totally overbuilt”. However motor to substrate rigidity is essential to the Maslow design. Even a millimeter of flex in the frame contributes to less accuracy in the cut.

There are several issues I’ve tried to address with the construction:
Rigid construction to reduce flex in motor supports under load.
Adjustment for chain to substrate distance.
Adjustment for substrate frame angle
Skirt support for sled while cutting near edges of media.
Frame mobility.

The motor support beam is 12 ft. long and 2 ft. above the cut area to increase the chain angle when the sled is at the top of the cutting area and reduce the angle when cutting at the bottom corners.

P1080923-Edit

I used unistrut for the beam as many of you have suggested. However unistrut will bow and twist slightly under load especially with longer lengths so a second piece of unistrut is bolted securely to the first to prevent that distortion as much as possible. The vertical struts that hold the motor beam were also doubled up to stabilize them as well.

P1080945-Edit

As I’ve described before, the top beam is adjustable to align the chain for different thicknesses of material. The frame angle is similarly adjustable. And 4” casters are installed to allow this heavy assembly to be moved easily.

P1080926-Edit

P1080934-Edit

P1080935-Edit

P1080941-Edit-Edit

P1080951-Edit-Edit

When my kit arrives I’ll be able to fine tune the frame and deal with sled design, chain routing, etc. This design is not “set in stone”. I welcome any suggestions!


New Unistrut build - critical dimensions
#5

Oh man, it’s so cool to see these frames coming together. Great work, and thank you for sharing. The pictures along the way are really nice because once the final version is there it would be hard to see what is behind the spoil board


#6

Wow, I’m speechless and that rarely happens. Nice design that I would trust.


#7

Yep, flex is out of the equation! Beautiful!!


#8

There are no software changes between the basic and advanced frame designs, it’s
just a matter of how much material you can handle.


#9

I would flip the unistrut connected to the angles over, have it fixed to the top beam and move on the angles

the reason for this is that the chain will hit the prt of the unistrut that sticks out in front of the top beam.


#10

Thanks David. I checked the chain path from the position of the motor cog and had clearance up to a couple of inches above the opposite top corner. Originally I had planned to have the vertical top beam supports 10’ apart which proved to cause chain interference. At 8’ apart I think they’ll be fine. I’ll know more when I actually get the motors installed.

I expect to need more chain though. Does anyone have a good source to chain?


#12

Ummm :grin:. Then use a chain breaker along these lines to get a couple short pieces for extensions.


#13

#25 roller chain is readily available from many sources
(ebay,aliexpress,amazon,etc)


#14

I think I am going to build this too it looks awesome. My current maslow has some warping of the plywood causing issues


#15

Overkill is under-rated, if it can be built, it can be over-built. Love it!


#16

Finally got my Unistrut frame built and made my first cut on it today. Works great, and no flexing. Used 1.5 inch PVC pipe to contain the extra chain at the top. And used a pully and weight system to keep the tension on each chain. Upped the power supply to 12v 30 amp, way more than this will ever need, and added a fan to the shield for the additional heat dissipation. Also added a router power control and setup z axis auto zero. Maslow CNC is awesome thanks to everyone who made this happen. Still need to update a few things on the frame, but I am very impressed with the results.



#17

very nice, I like the use of the pvc pipe to guide the slack chain. It seems
like you could you could very easily run the pipe across the top of the top beam
and then have a sweep on the end to guide a weight down on the far side.


#18

I used a large eyebolt at the end of the PVC to guide the rope to a pulley that I got off Amazon. I had not thought about using a sweep.

I also over sized the machine. The top beam is 12 feet long and I surrounded the 4 foot by 8 foot cutting area with a 16 inch surround so that I could add support for the sled if I chose to cut at the edges of the material. The reason I chose to extend the top beam to 12 feet is that I noticed when the sled was at the extreme left and right edge the longer chain was almost slack due to the lack of weight pulling directly on it. The weight was almost completely supported by the shorter chain. With the motors farther apart there is a little more force pulling down on the longer chain when the sled is at the left and right ends of the 4 foot by 8 foot area. This seems to help with sloppy movement near the left and right edges. Of course this also meant that I had to add chain so that the sled could reach.

Here are links to some of the things I used.

Stansport Heavy Duty Pulley Hoist https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010XRV9O?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

The router power relay is really nice here is where I got it.

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or Wifi, Relay Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zAbfBbXD5WMN8

The iot relay is also available direct from the manufacturer.

The power supply I got from e-bay.


#19

we have been talking about doing a 12’ top beam for a long time, but nobody has
actually reported on doing it before.

I’d love to have you do the calibration benchmark and report back with your
numbers.

David Lang


#20

I will make sure to get that done soon.


#21

I have a 12’ topbeam on mine. I have been running fine so far, though haven’t tried the calibration test though so don’t have any specific numbers.