Hi forum. This is my first post. My Maslow is still in its box but I’ve begun working on my frame design based on design concepts I’ve read here on the forum.
The design objective is to have full 4x8 edge accuracy, and be extremely ridged.
The 2x4 frame will support the plywood picture frame face with 12" bordering the workspace.
The top beam would be a 2x10 at 12’ long and 24" above my work space.
My working sheet would be supported by 8 corner pieces (pictured) and forgo a waste board behind my working sheet.
I like the built-in skirt, and the open frame design, perfect for sheet storage. The 2x10 should be nice and rigid. Possible considerations:
The lack of a spoil board means that you won’t be able to mount anything less than 4x4’, unless you put a moderately thick spoil board to act as a backer. Not a big deal, just wanted to point it out.
I am assuming you have a large workshop, as this will be a big machine.
Your support configuration means that you will only get the intended support for your sled with working stock no thicker than your skirt. Anything thinner can be shimmed to match the skirt face, but anything thicker will stick out proud.
Looks really solid! The skirts will be really useful.
I have found that thinner stock, like 1/4” ply, can have a lot of warping in both directions. 1/4 luan ply is great for calibration because it is relatively cheap ($13-$16/sheet). To get the material flat on your design you will probably need a backer that will get the 1/4” flush with your skirts, and allow a way to deal with the warpage with screws or nails. Whether you like it or not, that ends up being a spoil board. Since 1/2 & 3/4 boards are also likely to be cut, a strategy needs to be developed to handle all 3. In my case, a permanent 3/4 x 4 x 8 backer, with the skirt mounted 1” in front. The 1/4 ply gets a 3/4 “spacer” with a 1/4” foam spoil. 1/2 gets a 1/4 “spacer with the 1/4” foam spoil. And the 3/4 gets just the 1/4” foam.
My thinking is if I need a spoil board, its because I’m cutting a small enough project that I wont care about running to the edges, meaning I can slip a temporary spoil board in place.
The machine measures 8’ tall, and 12’ wide.
The back wall of my single car garage is 8.5’ x 16’.
It’s definitely going to OWN the back wall.
Only thing on the back wall at the moment is some storage I can relocate.
My plan is for a 3/4" skirt as I believe this it the thickest material I’ll be cutting.
For thinner material, I will make 1/4" and 1/2" thick support triangles to “lift” my working material up to match the 3/4" skirt.
I think you’re right about a Maslow logo! Does anyone on here sell decals or a stencil to paint one on?
that’s at least double the width that you need. 9" will let you go all the way
off your workpiece with the sled 100% supported, and you really don’t need 100%
support.
Your frame is definitely heavy duty. First thought when I saw your drawing was Wow!
I just finished 90% of my frame this afternoon and will have to wait for my kit to arrive on monday to mount the motors on the beam before attaching it to the frame due to height restrictions in my garage.
I do have a vinyl cutter to make sticker/decals but you will have a Maslow so you could just cut a paint stencil out of 1/4 plywood.
I will be making a logo sticker for my car window just to see if I can get anyone to ask me about it. If anyone else is interested in window stickers (in white vinyl) for their vehicles PM me. They would be about 7.5 inches across (to fit in regular 8.5x11 envelope) or smaller upon request. $5.00 for the big ones postage paid in the US only (sorry overseas Maslowians) smaller ones would be slightly cheaper.
I planned to add side skirts, so the bottom 2x4 is 10’ long, but have found that the sled can run on the edges pretty close to ends (say 2"). With the latest configuration attention was paid to getting the chains parallell to the worksurface, and thus the ring was raised on the sled. This made the sled hang top forward. Thus the horizontal board on the sled… It was handy, and the perfect weight!
you want the chains parallel to the workpiece, but you should not do so by moving the ring, you should first balance the sled by adjusting the ring, then either move the top beam or move the workpiece (by adding additional/thicker wasteboards) to get the chains parallel.
Nice! I use the same tension system, but in the sides I have backlash and middle high not enough tension… Do you have the same problems? How many inches/cm do you have?
I’ve ordered some pulleys to try that. I will also try to use an increased beam.
Are you asking how wide the space is that the Bungee covers? Have not measured that, but my bungee is the flat type, and I selected the length of 36” compressed based on observations early in in this adventure. When the beam grew to 12’, I figured that if there was enough slack chain on the new set-up, nothing would really change regarding the bungee and it’s working space. This in fact is the case. I increased the tension slightly by tying a knot in the Bungee. I have run the sled around the outer reaches of the parimeter, and the slack seems pretty well managed.
