Ok so I got the Metal Maslow sled & z-axis upgrade from @Metalmaslow It’s amazing, I love it. They were great to deal with, and sorted out all of my issues very quickly. This thing is a beast, js.
Ok on to my issue. So I changed the z-axis pitch in maslow settings to -8, which works very well. It moves up and down the amount I tell it to, no problems. YAY! I then changed the Radius setting to 180.34mm as instructed by @Metalmaslow to do. I cut some things just to test the z-axis and they came out beautifully! Tabs were flawlessly created, and all the cuts were super clean. YAY! Ok so, I made a DXF of a single line, that’s 12" long. Took it into my cam software, and measured it, yep, 12". Exported the gcode, and off to the maslow it went! It cut a beautiful, and perfectly straight vertical line as I told it to. A beautiful, and perfectly straight 11.5" vertical line. So now my 1/16" accuracy is 1/2" and I can’t have that. LOL
What advice would you give to get me back to my accuracy that I had before changing to the new sled? The MetalMaslow sled is significantly smaller in diameter than the stock sled where my accuracy was within 1/16 of an inch. I made the 2 changes I was instructed to do, but nothing I did would get me a 12" line on my material. I even manually entered my chain lengths, which was off in GC, but made no difference to the 12" line. I manually measured the radius, which I was told should be 7.1" and was more like 7.25", I changed that, and tried again, 11.5" again. Then I changed it all back to my original calibration settings and figured I’d ask the pros 
Thanks for reading 
1 Like
Did you recalibrate using the new sled?
I didn’t. Just edited the info pertaining to the new sled. Should I recalibrate again?
Yes, definitely. Whenever you make a change that alters something like the rotational radius of the kinematics kit (i.e., going from ring kit to linkage) or even changing the weight of the sled, you need to recalibrate
DOH! Killing me man! Nah JK, I will do it tomorrow when I get to the shop. I didn’t realize the chain and all that would need to be done again too. Just figured changing the sled, I’d only have to change the parts pertaining to the sled. I was also thinking after reading your first reply, that you know, the ring kit, you use the next to the last link in the chains to attach it. In the metal maslow, you use the end tube of the chain. That would be roughly 1/2", the difference between 2 links of the chain right? And… Now it’s kinda clear to me. duh… Thanks man!
Oh, and since you’re a firmware guy, what’s the difference between 1.26 and 1.27 in GC? I’m currently running 1.26 and have had great success with it. The only thing I’ve ever really noticed about it that I don’t like, is during the pull chain tight and measure part of the calibration, when it’s done, it doesn’t let out enough slack to easily remove the chain. Other than that it’s been great. And I do wish there was a ‘auto mot to center’ function. in the controls. But I don’t mind eyeballing it.
You can skip to the end and just do the calibration cut. I’d recommend, however, updating the guess for the rotational radius to what @metalmaslow recommends. Their linkage kit has a different rotational radius than the ring kit. By updating it before the calibration cuts, you will likely get better results (at least first time around). As for links, is it possible to use the same second link (safety reasons). Regardless, you shouldn’t have to reset the chains as any difference will be corrected in the calibration process (the extra link will be accounted for during the optimization of the rotational radius).
1 Like
1.27 has some code in it designed to work for holey calibration, but won’t work well for stock ground control. 1.26 is still the latest release of firmware.
There is a return to center on the actions menu.
Thanks for clearing that up! I also never noticed that return to center in the actions menu, thank you for that as well!
Edit: As far as using the final link in the chain, the pin doesn’t go through the sprocket portion of the chain, it goes through the entire “post” part of the chain. (through both sides of the link, and through the center post) Should I still move it up one? I was thinking if it went through the entire part of the last link, it wouldn’t suffer from the post falling out. But again, it’s good to know to avoid any issues, especially a 13000 RPM 1/4" diameter death machine swinging at me uncontrollably 
Thanks @madgrizzle, your advice got me back on track! I’m about 30 minutes from finishing a full sheet cut, and all measurements are spot on. Your advice worked for me and saved me a butt load of time!
Had an issue in the lower right corner, but that’s my fault, shouldn’t have been cutting down there with a 10’ top bar anyway haha
2 Likes