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Automating z-axis zeroing


I think it is not implemented yet, installing the button is as far as thet got :slight_smile:


@Dag83, I got the auto Z hooked up, thanks for the post. I bought a piece of 1/16 × 3.5 ×2’ flat aluminum and put a 90 on one end and drilled a hole and put a screw through it with a ring on the wire to put behind sled to touch bit to. I put a ring on other wire and put it on the base clamp screw with a connector to unplug it when done using to get out of way. Added the macro and works great! Sometimes i have to push macro a few times even with bit close to aluminum puck flat stock. I added wires to aux 1 as you suggested, is there directions anywhere for the auto start/stop of the router/vac? I’ve searched but don’t really see the directions, only discussion about making it work and getting bar to incorporate it.
Thanks again for this post. Bit changes and zeroing are gonna be a breeze now!! :sunglasses:


aluminum tends to oxidize and have poor electrical connections over time. you might want to sand it occasional to a bright finish for best results.


Not yet, i’ll try writing a guide when i get mine installed. It’s more of a “while the soldering iron is hot you might as well add that too” thing :slight_smile:


@Dag83 Oh ok, thank you. I didn’t know if anyone completed that task yet. Will be a nice feature to have as well! :slightly_smiling_face:


It should work, you just need to put a (solid state) relais on the aux1 port, and enable it in the settings. I just don’t have any time to try it out, and i won’t post a guide for something i haven’t done myself yet.


I just tried this out and it worked pretty well. Have any of you tested this a lot with the Rigid router? Where do y’all attach on your router?


I clip to the bit, but other folks say they’ve clipped to the z-motor mount or to the router base. Clipping to the bit is pretty sub-optimal… hard to reach and don’t forget to remove the clip before spinning up :crazy_face:.


Just try it out and report back pleace, i’d assume all metal parts are somehow connected. I was thinking of replacing the clip with a manget, much easier to connect.


I ask because I tried a couple times clipped to the z-axis motor and the bit zero’d slightly too deep (maybe 0.7mm). Next time I tried holding the clip against the router body and it got what appeared to be spot on.

The metal surfaces I’ve tried under the sled aren’t the best though. So it’s possible that’s what caused the variation, and not the spot I clipped to.

I ran my wires through the bundle with the motor wire. which does make it really convenient to clip to the motor


The more I think about it the more I think this is the right idea. I’ll give this a try.


are you hooking the magnet to the bit/chuck or to the router housing?

David Lang


Maybe the housing because then I don’t have to take the clear window off the router base. Why? Do you have any leaning about which would be better?


well, if it’s the housing, can’t you permanently attach it?

I am sure attaching it to the bit/chuck will work, attaching it to the housing
will probably work (you have to go through the bearings, but we don’t need much
current), and would let you leave it permanently attached.

David Lang


You can just throw the magnet to the router from a distance and it should work. all metal parts should be connected and are magnetic.


I believe taking the time to attach to the collet or bit defeats the simplicity of the automation. Without this feature I use a metal ruler to bridge across the sled to check the position of the bit. Bringing up the clear guard reminded me of an issue I had previously with the guard itself causing the Z-AXIS to fail. Z - Axis Hangup on Clear Ridged Guard. Just thought I’d let you know.