yeah that is how I did it as well, WinSCP. So if you feel you lost controller again, where maybe bug. You manually change the name of .json file (like we did yestrday) and manually transfer new one back in right? You do not just load a saved Webcontrol backup. is that true?
ok cool so does same thing 
SO we have a backup of a backup to be safe, I like that! I do not want to go through this again!!
Correct, change the name of the corrupted .json file, then transfer in the backup file.
i think it does, Ive never used it
perfect! i saved a new copy of that too so I could manually move it via the process of changing name. This is awesome Jon, I cannot thank you enough for all your help! Everyoneās along the way for past week or more. I am so excited, so many things I want to make now
Glad I could help
your the best!! I will be sure to share some of my future works with you! if I can figure out something on the 3D printer to make Holey as quick as can be to measure, will be sure to share. happy to mail you one if we can figure it out and works perfectly. more to come on that. Thanks again
Maybe before too deep into only want to make things, I should work on the metal maslow sled with that meticulous Z setup. I have all that, and why I had that spare motorā¦the one where it is driven by a little belt. We will see, I want to play around for a bit tomorrow and get comfortable Plus I think would have to calibrate sled again as no way that ring will be mounted in exact place on new sled. It would be nice to have 2 configurations saved, this way can use either sled if you want. I need to think more about that knows what I know now about that .json file. Thanks again for your help!!
If I had a meticulous Z type setup to use. I would use it and NOT go back to using the router base sled. Linear rail based Z axis is the best way to go. I would keep your existing setup and use it to learn on and start cutting your arcade parts. Work the tweaks out of the rest of your maslow first. However, I would transition to the metal maslow at the next opportune time.
Ok good then this is the plan :). I didnāt realize it was that better when I got it, but over the last week working with you all and seeing how the Z worksā¦and issues I had, even the play until the rigid router base in generalā¦now I see why that much better. Also I ready up on the touch zero;
Totally doing that as I have a new ardiuno coming from metal
Maslow with the extra aux section as have the unit from them to shut the router on and off between cuts. So works out that has ports like that so I can make this touch Z without having to solder pins I believe.
I made a video on setting up the metal sled if you want to check it out.
Absolutely will do that tomorrow, fantastic! Thanks canāt wait to see it. Maybe I will even watch now. Love your videos :). Never knew it was you the whole time. Lol.
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I wanted to pass an idea to you Orob, dlang and Jon. You all seem to really know your stuff. Has anyone thought of making Maslow a gantry setup (like the wall mount), that can be used as mine (well all our Maslows) sits at 13 degrees or open to a flat tableā¦where I can only assume with rails the gantry can move much faster? Itās just an idea but figured you all know the people in this community much more than I. Here is my sketch, I think can use this kind of material for frame for the main part the burn board mounts to. The part our cut boards lie against. I forget what itās called but will find out. Itās light weight. And easy to work with I heard. Makes mountting the rails to it to be done with precision and attaching the the gantry much easier I can only assumeā¦then use this sketch as a design for the frame this metal bolts to. Use at the 13-15 degree or on the flat. I think still VERY cost effective. Most can be purchased at HD still and custom made; just need to add rails and motor
Setup to the current sellers list of kits. We could all even take our existing frames, wall mount or free standing, add a pre-fab or a hand made extension with the 1 1/2 inch slot to mount new front to (with bolts) to allow the face of frame we make to drop down to flat mode, where then the legs can then drop down to support on the end opposite the main frame. I think we can easily Make that channel in our existing sides to fit in a prefab metal channel insert that we can square up and use counter flush screws to mount to our side frames. Then the rest you build yourself (the new top, rails, and gantry setup). Obviously that new top would be wider than 4 feet so the rails could mount further out to fit full sheet of plywood between the rails for the gantry. Easy if have my setup as itās taller, maybe even fine for the standard frame for folks without the longer 12 foot too beam and regular freestanding design. Just a thought anyhow if you all
Know what to do with it or who to go to that can make this a reality if has legs. Eventually I may try this myself to see if can get to work, but the software and gantry setup is where I will get stuck. image|375x500
You can use a router jig like this that anyone can easily make to cut that channel to put this insert inā¦or use the bolts directly into existing frame in this channel you can make with this jigā¦itās incredibly accurate if you ever used one with a router. Again just my idea I had when building mine last year to take Maslow to the next level and perform faster cuts. -Bryan image|375x500
Hey Jon and Orob, you will be happy to know I am trying to make my first side panel now for one of my wall mount arcades. I got a weird error that there was a āConnection Lostā USB error. I am not sure why this has not happened before, but also probably have not gotta more than 5 mins into a cut before. Moved it back to home, cleared the G code and started again. So far so good we we have moved past that point in code when it happened. Its a doozy for my first
real cut, about 2.5 hours but she is going
You can see here, this one is much more difficult than my test squares! Thanks again for all your help, and will let you know if the error comes up again during this cut.
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Hey gang I will try finding answer on this in forum but USB connection lost 41.9% into a 2.5 hour part. 
Iām a little confused by what I have been reading so farā¦is my connection getting lost because maybe a power cord is near the USB (or itās bad which I doubt) or is there a chance the USB on the Pi4 (I am seeing windows answers only) is going to sleep and need to do something through putty to keep it awake. It was funny it lost it right as it was done boring out a 1 inch diameter hole for a bit. Also I do have to do chain reset right, or can I just 12 oāclock to the marked gear and slip on. Hopefully this doesnāt mess with my Holey calibration as have already run that 2 times in past few days.
just 12:00 reset chain procedure will get you back in place. you should not need to recalibrate. try a different usb port? What is the amp rating for your pi4 power supply? It is possible the system is browning out. Piās take a lot of power. My Pi4 I left connected to my TV overnight and it hangs, so isnāt super reliable for āonā time. Iāve not had any issues with the pi3ās. It could be a cheap SD card or a corrupt SD card. Is your system still functional after maslow stops?
ok great, thank goodness as now I have the chains and sprockets marked thanks to your video. So 12 oāc them and pop the link on, awesome! Yeah I am not sure what is going on, that first time it did it the pi was only on for maybe 8-10 mins topsā¦ I do have the display out from the Pi4, but that is obviously totally different power. I would think between processing the display and what not, itās workingā¦but I have not see it go over 70%, and I am not even overlocked. I buy good SD cards, I do not think itās that although I feel they are somewhat unreliable in general (you may agree). The cuts too, only 1/16th deep. it was only making little pockets for mounting the wood which then I tie the face of the arcades into. So it was not working hard, well at least I did not think it was as I was watching it. The only thing is the shield (the motor power if that is the right term) IS in the same channels as part of the USB cordā¦and there are some little metal flip type clips there and there (You know the one screw and a flat piece you easily round over your cable. it was all I had that night, maybe the metal is carrying from the power supply to the USB and interupting? It is a Canakit pi with the proper power supply. Maybe I get those 2 wires away from touching one another? The only thing I do want to add, which was oddā¦Is it took a bit to cut that 1 1/8 circle pocket, could the arduino or pi already KNOWING the code its running be thinking its idle and shutting down. I recall my son when coding the pi, there was something with webcontrol about retrying or restarting, and I think he had changed it to NO. Is that maybe an issue too? Thanks for anything you can offer Orob, I am sort of at a standstill on what to target into to fix thisā¦
Also Yes the Maslow is functional. In fact the second cut that got 50 mins in or more I didnāt even reset the chains. (Now I know I should! ). Sent the sled back to home (the new home for the part) I ran it again and let if go over what I just did. It was perfect no noise at all of wood bing cut until it got past where it locked up and had to start over. Also, here is my power for the motors and the USB. You can see the metal clips. The power for motors are in an outlet. The pi is in a power strip. Here you can see the setup, you may say thatās no goodā¦! Also the whole unit is still on, when I moved sled back to the temp home position, I just left everything on to see if maybe could fix so could start the cut again without burning all the wood as this piece is like 48-52 inch long image|375x500
