I think asa and ansi are the same?
Yeah thats what the chain websites say, $18nz a foot seems pretty expensive though! I guess I could join the 2 lengths I already have with a link, and then buy one extra length for the other side? I have a big 4m length of RHS 75x50 that would be good for the top beam.
So I’ve changed my spindle to a new (better suited and lighter) makita rt0700c 65mm and have cut most of my parts for the z axis. This is what the z axis will look like. So now I can make the sled as light as possible and get it well under the 30lb mark.
Hi Sam. Nice Z-axis! I cheated and just bought one from Banggood 
Where in NZ are you based? I’m in Nelson. Would be great to meet a local face to chat about Maslow so thought I’d check just on the off-chance
if you will be cutting hard woods or other dense materials you
will want a plate twice as big with two more linear bearings to counter act the torque.
Ok will look into getting another 2 linear bearings, these are 16mm rails and bearings, so ill definitely need another 2? Most of the time it’ll just cut plywood up to 17mm thick. Thanks
Not sure, but they are pretty cheap from China and definitely wouldn’t hurt. https://linkcnc.aliexpress.com/store/834897/search?SearchText=16mm+linear+bearings
I’ll go ahead and get 2 more bearings I can get them in nz so no worries there I’ve put most of the z axis together but I’ll simply make another bridge across the other 2 bearings and tig the 2 together down the middle here’s my progress…
So I have rebuilt the sled its 6mm 316 stainless, same larger ring and its now adjustable 120mm up or down total weight of sled is 11lbs 5kg and its all concentrated in the base so low centre of mass heres a photo
Busy day here, have finished the sled and I’m now calibrating the machine here is a photo of the finished sled. Seems to sit rock steady even on the edge of the ply so I’m very happy with the result!
@Gero so ive just weighed the final assembly 10.5kg 23lbs including router z axis and sled. About right? Definitely need another 2 linear berings like you suggested. A 3mm depth cut is fine but 6mm and the router starts to vibrate/chatter so ill do that asap. I also have one last issue in the bottom lower corners at the very edge of the ply the router seems to not have enough force downwards against the chains? And the bit cuts a wavy line instead of straight heres a few photos so you see what I mean. First photo is on the edge and second is 15cm inside of the first.
I’ve tightened the grubscrews on the linear bearing housings and its taken up the slack in them, ive got two more on their way anyway that ill add but seemed to cut without issues now. Here is my solution to the tipping on the edge problem… a side panel that can move up and down. I cut the slotted bits out of 26mm beech with the maslow 2mm passes came out pretty good considering the bit is a little worn!
So as a test I’ve cut a test puzzle joint for a glasshouse I’m about to cut out with the maslow .25mm total clearance on the join. This is the result. Cut in the centre left section. Good enough, and would be way better with a sharp bit! I’ve got some new ones on the way.
I’ve been working on my chain tensioner as I was fed up with my clunky bottom fed method with weights attached to a rope over the back that needed excessive weight to hold tension. So I have switched to top fed with weights off the side, minimal weight needed and perfect tension it seems I took inspiration from @Jon and expanded on the idea. Is there any disadvantages to this method or is it OK? Here is my one.
the chain feed being at an angle is the obvious issue, which you seem to have addressed with your wood ramps. I’d put some metal or UMHW over those wood ramps.with some guides on the L and R to keep it centered. One snag could easily mess up a cut.
Will do im going to get some Teflon for the sled so will get a little extra for the chain ramps. It seems to be going pretty well though! Here is a chopping board I cut out tonight, dimensions were 280x390 with a 120mm pocket with a tape measure its spot on.
wood clamps often fail, the wood dries out and then splits along the grain. 3d printed or 65mm aluminum one would be best over time.
