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European version of maslow

Hi all,

I’m new on this forum, and I am not a very experienced writer, so excuse me for my english (I am dutch speaking).
I am a big fan of the Maslow cnc machine. Getting the kit imported into Europe is quite expensive due to import fees and taxes.
While i don’t have a problem to pay for a kit, i do have a (principle) problem to pay import fees and taxes.
Because of that, I decided to built a version of the Maslow, using components that I can source locally.
At the moment I designed a sled using mm dimensions instead of inches, and currently I am looking into the electronics part.
I have ordered an Arduino Mega, and I would like to build the motor control board from scratch using L298n chips.
I already downloaded the firmware for the arduino, and when I look into the “System.ccp” tab I found the section where the IO is linked according to the detected shield.
Since I will not have a shield during tests, does this mean that i have to modify that section of code?

The motors I have ordered have similar specs as the original ones, but are 24V, but other than a suited power supply, i should be fine i think?

kind regards,

Stijn

Excellent! We’re here to help

Actually Maslow is all designed in mm. Even in the US a lot of work is done metric because inches are pretty silly.

“Not have a shield” as in you are making your own, or “not have a shield” as in nothing is connected to the arduino?

That’s probably an upgrade :+1:

Hi Bar,
Thanks for the answers.
By no shield I mean: i am planning on connecting two L298n breakout boards to the IO pins of the Arduino for testing.
these:

Should I change this part of the code for that purpose?
image

Looking forward on some feedback guys!

Thanks and kind regards,

Stijn

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Have you seen:

MarcinanBarbarzynca might have working firmware using the L298N drivers.

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I understand now. Yes, the easiest thing to do is probably to hard code the board detection to make it think the L298N shield is connected.

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Yea, do a diy shield and get better encoders for motor.
Just Hardcode the version and use my diy shield. Make sure there is no shorts between traces (sometime dust can lower the resistance between two copper paths)

Just don’t try to build anthing on cheap encoders and that will be enough.

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Regarding the shield.

I would recommend that if you build from scratch, start sourcing your chips ASAP. Supply is…. inconsistent right now.

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Hi all,

Busy weekend, sorry for the delay in answers.
The motors i have found have 11 ppr resolution, with a gearbox from 1:280. they should work fine I think.
these:

I havn’t focussed on the z axis yet, because I first want to get the X and Y axis running.
This Tuesday the Arduino mega comes in and I will try to get the firmware in.
I haven’t yet been looking into the webcontrol software, so that will be for the comming week.

a picture of the design for the sled:

The baseplate will be cnc cut out of 15mm multiplex this week (we have a cnc for wood at my workplace)
When this is done I will post some photo’s.
the sled is designed for a makita rt0700, but the clamp can be changed for other machines.
The first version of the clamp will be 3D printed.

The ring is build from 3 layers of 5mm plexiglas (I am lucky to own a laser cutter to make this kind of parts). The middle ring is a little wider, so it can function as a rail to guide the bearings.

As always, I am open for feedback!

kind regards

Stijn

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Busy weekend, sorry for the delay in answers.
The motors i have found have 11 ppr resolution, with a gearbox from 1:280. they should work fine I think.
these:
https://www.dennisxl.com/collections/tools-industrial-scientific/products/chihai-chw-gw4058-3162-dc-24v-gear-motor-28-74-222-rpm-worm-reduction-gear-encoder-motor_1476043?_pos=1&_sid=088fb3922&_ss=r

Those should work very well, about 50% faster and double the torque of the
motors Bar initially shipped.

I havn’t focussed on the z axis yet, because I first want to get the X and Y axis running.
This Tuesday the Arduino mega comes in and I will try to get the firmware in.
I haven’t yet been looking into the webcontrol software, so that will be for the comming week.

The ring is build from 3 layers of 5mm plexiglas (I am lucky to own a laser cutter to make this kind of parts). The middle ring is a little wider, so it can function as a rail to guide the bearings.

what are you planning to use for the bearings? note that any inperfections
(wear) that develop in the ring will have a substantial effect on the cut
quality. It’s common to see slight scallops on the edge of cut parts as the
bearings move in jerks along the ring

I would suggest that you take a close look at the linkage options. The ring
works, but is substantially more expensive to make and ship due to the wasted
metal and final size. I’d be happy to ship you a set to experiment with, but
given current shipping, it could take a while to get to you (PM me if you want
me to send you a set anyway)

David Lang

Hi,

by linkage options, do you mean that i would be better if i switch to the metal maslow system? (linking arms?

à

kind regards

Stijn Lefevre

There are two styles of linkages that were designed, the metal maslow system
uses one of them. (sometimes called the 45 degree kit), I designed another one
called the top pantograph kit (the design is free for anyone to use)

David Lang

Hi David,

I didn’t know about the phantograph kit.
I will look into this and see if I can fabricate some Aluminum test parts on my small cnc.
thanks for the info!

kind regards,

Stijn Lefevre

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Hi david,

I have altered the ring design to an phantograpg design.
As for bearing/easy moving I will change the design a litle more, using Igus igildur cilindrical bushings.
in large quantities they are realy cheap, and i think they will contribute to smoother movement.
The spaver block will be 3d printed, and at the moment is 80mm thick.

if all goes well, i will receive my parts for the z-axis next week, and I will start posting some pictures from the build.

As always, I am open for feedback!

kind regards,

Stijn Lefevre

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just a couple notes

  1. the horizontal arms can be whatever length you need to clear the router
  2. when you are in the near bottom corner, the chain angle gets closest to vertical, with a 10’ top beam this gets to ~80 degrees from horizontal, if the horizontal bars are too wide, they will hit each other at this angle (that plus saving material is the reason for the odd shape that I used, narrower in the middle) if you go with a wider top beam, the angle isn’t as steep and this is less of a problem
  3. make the holes a snug fit, and watch for wear. If the holes/bushings aren’t a snug fit, you can get it ‘snapping over’ center and lock up. I sized the holes to fit the shoulder of common bolts, and use stainless steel rather than aluminum to avoid wear issues (anodizing the aluminum may solve the wear issue as well)
  4. getting the block in the right space on the sled is critical, too high or low will cause error. if you have an appropriate bit in the router (pointed or small enough for the chain link hole) you can use the vertical arms to position the mounting holes

I like this design as it keeps the linkage out of the way of the rest of the mechanism, but you should build this and the ring version and test them for a while to see what you like better.

Al naar de bosch pof1200 gekeken voor een z-as? Ik ben daar een tijdje kits voor aan het verkopen geweest hier. Ik denk dat ik nog wel een kan bijeen kan scharrelen als je geinteresseerd bent.

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Hi Stijn Lefevre.
Excellent idea - I have build two version of Maslow here in Poland and sourcing parts is a major pain in the neck. I like your z-axis design which can fit very well to my Mark II design Maslow Mark II - 3D
take a look and maybe it will be of some help.
lets keep in touch
Tomasz