I picked up some cheap levels from Amazon that worked better than the bigger, more expensive levels I had around.
I drove a screw into the front of the beam to hold the small ones when not in use (the bigger ones I show below have much stronger magnets, but the small ones are easier to use)
$7 ea https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XNWXKWN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00
The small ones I show below are the $9 pair, and I think those are what I’m going to stick with. They have a button magnet in the center (not exposed on the bottom) and hold pretty well. If they fall off when in operation or moving around I may change my mind
The $2 ones have an exposed flexible magnet on the bottom, I don’t trust it (it’s also much smaller, so harder to read).
The $7 are handy, but not nearly as convenient as the $9 pair.
hmm, as I look at the pictures, the larger ones don’t sit flat, so they give a false reading. that rules them out for sure.
@dlang Great idea and can’t beat those prices. I’m recalibrating at the moment as well and getting a chance to try out some of my new 3D printed tools I’ve been acquiring (printed and designed by others). I have to say, it is very satisfying to have a level for this!
One thing I couldn’t remember is how to center the bubble with respect to the slop in the motor. My chain goes under the sprocket to attach to the sled (slack across the top). I set zero with ccw tension to simulate the sled being connected (see below pictures)…is that right?
These cost less than a dollar to make
Going to include them in our kits
Yes!! I’m very excited about what you have been saying about your kits. Thank you.
the disadvantage of that is that you need to have the chain fully detached so that both sides hang freely.
There are a lot of times where you need to reset and have the sled hooked up, so anything that requires that you detach the chain is a headache.
so how does your level work? the magnet is put ontop of the bumpy chain links? is the magnet skinny enough to be inside the chain link, or does it rest on top of the outermost links?
I can buy bulk magnets and heat shrink the green level to the magnet instead of heat shrinking it to the wire.
it’s a smooth plastic bottom with a magnet in it (you can barely see the magnet
in the picture of it on the front of the beam) and it sits on top of the
@WoodCutter4 Can you share links to these 3d prints
Of course! Here you go:
Set your 12 o'clock position with a level... because
This is a very good thread. If you haven’t seen it yet I recommend reading through it, and other threads by @c0depr1sm.
Did you get your answer on how to deal with the slop in the motor? I run into it every time I set the 12 o’clock but never asked the community what is best practice.
@MdO No I didn’t but I’m pretty sure you want to set it with tension on the motor in the direction of the chain feeding to the sled. I feel like I’ve read that on here before but…finding it again…that’s another story!
Another consideration is just that you want to do it the same each time, so that GC is being consistent on where it is feeding chain from.
This is not based on any evidence.
That’s correct, you want to set 12 o’clock with tension towards the sled.
Thanks, @dlang .
@Keith, I I think the issue is if you do it with the tension towards the slack side you end up with an important error as documented by c0depr1sm.