So this elicited more of a reaction than I anticipated, in the interest of not irritating anyone, here is a new thread.
Anyways in short I had planned on making a new zaxis that looks like the following:
@Gero again, I understand your concerns and you may be right. I may have to abandon the 80/20 design.
@Metalmaslow Bummer, I see the 125mm gantry plate, another ~$25. I should have stuck with the linear bearings.
Oh well, maybe this was a bad idea.
I wanted to ‘tease’ with a Blender image, but something happened to my left ring support. I failed
it would be a lot cheaper if you just bolted the cbeam to the wooden sled. no t slotted aluminum frame needed.
put router in and drilled/marked center and then last step is to use a compass or print out to align the ring kit. There is no point in making it adjustable if you are only using one router.
cut a keyhole shape in wooden circular sled to vacuum under the c beam
Hmm. Okay, maybe I will try something like this. Now I just need to design a vacuum setup like your’s.
I am german, so can’t be a red neck. How am I?
Cut off coke bottle and electricity pipes cut at an angle facing the bit rotation.
This can be done better, although it works.
So the new gantry plate and bearings arrived.
And MetalMaslow had been nice enough to send me a steel plate sled. So no more slotted aluminum frame. My machine may start to look too professional.
Built my linkage and painted my sled. I chickened out and went with flat black.
I need to rerun the holey calibration, but so far I am quite happy.
@Metalmaslow do you have a dxf for the sled? I would like to cut a wooden sheet for the underside to use in some instances.
Looks good. How are you liking the z axis movement speed?
It’s nice. It is 8x faster which if you are going from the full extreme to the other is still 20 seconds?? But for normal use raising to 5mm above the surface and plunging back in, it is very fast.
dxf base plate 0.25 steel.DXF (8.6 KB)
see attached DXF file. You might want to raise up the linkage arms. I think the C of G is around 2.5 to 3" for the Ridgid router. If you want to maximize vacuum a sheet of clear plastic over the center hole also helps.
I was thinking the same thing. Thanks for the DXF. I will keep an eye on tipping. If necessary I can swap out the threaded spacers.
We are a couple of students who just built the Maslow. We also have a Metal Maslow sled. After the first round of cuts, we feel the need to upgrade the Z-axis. No stability issues with that C-beam?
Where did you buy the beam?
No, I don’t see any stability issues so far. I purchased the C-Beam on alibaba. It took about 4 weeks to get here. And then I had to get a larger gantry plate because the one that came with it originally was not going to work.
If I had to do it again, particularly if I owned a Metal Maslow sled already, I would get MetalMaslow’s z-axis setup it uses slides and is more robust than the c-beam design.
China stuff with long delivery, but zero flex on an 8mm acrylic sled with 90° aluminium angles.
Edit: I’m moving a 500W (will upgrade to 800W air cooled) spindle on that. Not any router.
Nice! I would love to see some more pictures of your setup!
I spoke to Khahn behind Metalmaslow. He said that the C-beam is just as strong as the Metalmaslow Z-axis.
This is the supplier I ordered the beam from.
Then I bought this gantry plate
And I replaced all of the rollers with bigger ones as well. And finally you would need a router clamp from metal Maslow.
Maybe someone at alibaba has a premade xl c-beam, that would help a lot.
Thanks! We’ve got a pretty good metal machineshop, so I think we can fabricate the clamp and the plate if needed.
My understanding is don’t skimp on upgrading the rollers and bearings. The primary reason to switch to the xl is to get larger and more rollers and bearings to handle the torque
I cut out a wood base for the sled. I ended up using 3/4 melamine chip board because I had a leftover shelf piece that was nearly the exact right size. It is probably too tall by 50% and probably adds more weight than is needed. 1/2 would probably have been better. I still have the model, so I can recut new pieces relatively easily in the future.
Now I need an acrylic window to really cut down on the sawdust.
I think I am also going to move to a metal bar for my motor spacing. It looks like my motors moved about 5 mm closer together then when I last checked them. This could be caused by seasonal changes or because my green wood wasn’t fully dry. 5, is a sizable change. I would like to avoid doing the holey calibration as much as possible. It seems like every time I do it, I get one of the measurements wrong and spend 30 minutes tracking it down.
One downside to the 60 tooth sprocket on the z-axis, the motor has a bit of slop. My best guess is that with the 3x sprocket setup with an 8mm lead screw that this results in about .2mm of slop.
Also, does anyone else giggle a bit when using their maslow? It never ceases to amaze me that this silly looking contraption works as well as it does.
I’m following this with interest because I am still using the original ridgid-base-with-Zdrive setup that came with the original Maslow plan…and it’s starting to really show it’s age.
how do you plan on attaching the C-beam to the sled?
The concern I have is how to brace it in the sideways and backwards direction so it doesn’t flex.
I can’t find nice pre-made side brackets…
I’m interested in how you do it here.