Do you mean that you don’t want to have that slag? I can’t get proper tension. I was thinking about redoing the bungee/tension think. I followed what was suggested on the bolted frame. I like the idea to have all on the top, compared to the traditional frame. I also saw people using pulleys.
But at this point I may just weld a steel frame and work on that or I risk to do it twice…
I am going to make my Oregon smaller so I can nest it inside the first cut. Slow down the feed to 500mm/min, slow down the speed of the router to the minimum. Cut and take a video as you suggested.
you don’t want the slack to sag that much, either double-up the stretchy cord so
it doesn’t sag as much, or go to a weight based system to manage the slack.
Until you get a counterweight setup, take a bungee and put it through both chain sprockets, so that one chain is long, and the other is short, the slack in the chain is taken up better. It’s still going to have issues in the top center of the sheet when both slack chains are long though
I’ll try the bungee, thanks for the suggestion.
I prepared another file from fusion, this time at 500mm/min and 4mm passes.
Slowed down the router to the minimum.
Everything went well except that when closer to the end of the stock (say 3 inches from the left short side of the ply sheet) the sled started to loose balance and the spindle bit into the path (see pictures). No chain slippage this time.
So I think that I’m learning how to feed the router through the path, but I’m now facing the sled balance variable. Any suggestion?
Should I just stay away from the edges?
Good news is that I’m learning how to handle my work flow. I was able to design and send something to the Maslow using fusion. Z-azis settled up nicely, tabs worked out well.
I took two videos of the cut, hopefully I can upload it here.
first, check that the sled is balanced (doesn’t tilt as you hold it in the air
by the chains), that will let you get as close to the edge as possible, then you
need to add support if you want to get closer to the edge (this is the ‘skirt’
that you see people talk about)
you will have the same problem, but at a larger distance, at the bottom because
the bricks make the sled tilt sooner as you go off the bottom of the workpiece.
In the short term (ie before you have time to implement skirting) you can place a hand on the opposite side of the sled gently to keep it from tipping. Just make sure you don’t impede it’s movement.
