Here are my first couple of attempts making halftone images with my Maslow. I think I just need to use something with light to no grain. These take a long time to cut, made longer and more complicated by cutting through tape. I found that I have to clean the bit (acetone worked best for me) every 30-40 min.
That is awesome. What software are you using?
good work.
Thank you
I wrote some custom software to generate the g-code.
That is a great way to practice coding and art! 
You might know about other half toning tools, but maybe you’re interested into the stipplegen. It handles dot spacings and sizing somewhat differently. But does not generate Gcode directly…
It can also generate TSP art, which is nice because you can trace density with few z axis moves. A completely different result of course.
But could be fun to play with!
Thanks for pointing me to StippleGen, c0depr1sm! It looks like it does generate SVG files, so that’s just a hop-skip-and-a-jump to g-code.
Staying wood dark black and having wood colored dots might look good too.
Are you using a stepper bit to get the different diameter dots?
A faster z axis motor would really speed this up
First staining the wood black, or using that method (which I can’t remember the name of now, a Japanese word I think) where you burn the wood is a decent idea, and it’s on the list for future experiments.
I’m using a v-groove bit, like one of these:
I don’t want to spend too much more time upgrading and/or troubleshooting my Maslow. Is there a quick and easy replacement for the z-axis motor?
Your Half-tone Experiments are amazing. For more precise Z (if that’s not sufficient) a c-beam with back-lash reducer is the way to go from my perspective.
Either with router or spindle.
The Z-motor has as far as I know an encoder beyond the precision we need.
This motor from amazon works for some
Your Half-tone Experiments are amazing.
Thank you very much!
For more precise Z (if that’s not sufficient) a c-beam with back-lash reducer is the way to go from my perspective.
Either with router or spindle.
The Z-motor has as far as I know an encoder beyond the precision we need.
I feel like I’ve achieved the accuracy and repeatability that I need, at least for now. I spent a considerable amount of time troubleshooting z-axis issues (some my own fault), and I really just want to make stuff now.
I looked it up. The Japanese wood burning technique is called: shou sugi ban
That’s some nice work there. Makes me what to try Shou Sugi Ban even more.
Thanks! Love the work you’ve done!
A word of advice on ply…burn lightly with broad sweeps so the glue layer doesnt overheat and release. At that point the top layer will start curling.
Also, though it doesnt have a 5 star rating, this really helped me in the tight spots when sanding
Dremel EZ472SA 120-Grit Detail Medium Abrasive Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002E9GUDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xykaCbTHADP3E
Thank you! I like your stuff as well. Especially the street number sign.
And thanks for the tip on the abrasive brush. I could have used it on my pentaflake tabletop project.
Im with you on the upgrading side… I just want to create!!! Will say though, the zaxis motor @Metalmaslow linked above is the only one my Maslow has ever had. Sourced everything except the pcb on my own 
That is one first project!!!
Can’t wait to see more from you!
