in order to get them to the right height, instead of cutting the little doughnut shapes with the maslow.
To mount your linkage to your sled you need to determine how far off the sled it should be. If you were previously running a stock Maslow then you may have already determined a good spacing for your chains (the space between the work surface and the chain). A good rule of thumb is that the linkages should be mounted roughly near the sledâ€™s center of gravity in the z-axis. This measurement is not extremely critical but if it is off by too much it could cause the linkages to bind or rub in a manner that is not conducive to accurate cuts. Ultimately the goal is to have the chains running parallel to the work surface, so the distance of your motors from the work should match your linkages. Once you have determined a good spacing (letâ€™s use 2â€ as our example) then cut 4 blocks of wood 2â€ long. The blocks donâ€™t need to be very big but they should have sufficient surface area for glue; I suggest about 1 Â½â€ square. Drill a 3/16â€ hole all the way through each block in the 2â€ direction. Counter sink the 3/16â€ holes in the sled from the back to accommodate the head of the #10 machine screws. Insert the provided 4â€ #10-24 machine screws from the back of the sled and through the spacer blocks (See troubleshooting note about Z-Axis kit below). Add a washer (provided) to each #10 screw, then carefully attach the linkages with the nylon bushings sliding over the #10 screws. Add another washer to each screw then finish them off with a 10-24 nylock nut (provided). You should be able to tighten these down snugly and the linkages will still move freely. A small amount of friction is completely acceptable in this design. If things are binding then you need to find the friction points and fix it. Once you have tested your spacer blocks and are happy with the balance they should be glued securely to your sled. You can use it without gluing the blocks but things will be more structurally sound if they are glued.