Has anyone found a solution? I know this is an old thread. I’ve been using web control for a few weeks with no software issues, just hardware. Now I’m have the same issue. I’ve already run this program with success. It errored out in two different areas. I can’t run in fake servo mode, and when I try to type anything in, it only accepts the letter e one time. Is web control dead and unsupported?
Webcontrol is not dead. There is interest in moving away from it, but it has been functional for the last year and still used by many. I have not moved from it because I understand it (or I think can) and it is working great for me. Can you save a log from your system? PM me with the log or if it is too big to attach, I’ll provide an email to send it and see if I can find anything that might indicate why it is disconnecting.
(menu) Actions → download diagnostics file:
- Do any of your G3 commands have R’s or just i/j?
- Can you attach the gcode?
- Is the buffer enabled?
(menu) settings → maslow settings
GROWTH CHART FINAL.nc (29.0 KB)
here is the gcode. the other files are too big. buffer is not enabled.
I went out and got a new usb cord. It’s only 10 ft. So far so good. I’ll have to see if the whole program runs though. Now I’m having issues with holey calibration. Before I was able to adjust my board size to change the size of the pattern know no matter what I do, it just keeps going to the same holes. My calibration is off. Perhaps I’m doing it wrong. How do I make it cut new holes?
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put tape over the holes and recut
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In my experience, or “my case”, the length of the USB cable is not the source of the problem. There is a video from someone who put ferrite cores around ALL electricity cables in his work room and said that this would minimize the problem.
I am also having this issue now. Its weird because it can happen 1 minute into a cut or 1 hour into a cut.
I did reach out to EastBay (where I got my kit from) to see if they had any ideas.
Im running mine on a Pi4 and its the only USB device plugged in.
@Rcooper Did the new USB cable work out for you?
Yes and no. The new usb cable helped out until it didn’t… I solved my issue by accident. When I was running with the new cable, I grabbed my palm sander to clean up exposed cut areas and almost immediately got the lost connection. I got it to repeat the issue. I found that if I have anything more then an led light bar on the same fuse as the arduino, it would repeat. The arduino gets its own power now and I’m able to use the original long usb cable. Hope this helps👍
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I had been suspecting something like this. My problem is that i need to add a fuse and pull like 25m of cable… Does anyone has a technical explanation for this and maybe a way to fix this without using an extra fuse and cable?
I’ll hazard a hypothesis, but it might be incorrect. Depending on the age of the home, there may already be a number of other items on that circuit and that could be the issue. Typical home circuit is intended and wired for 15amps. If your dust collection, router and Christmas lights are on the same circuit/ breaker, then you may find like I did that everything shuts off randomly then that current rating of the breaker is exceeded. I put in 2 dedicated 20 amp circuits and split the router and dust collector. Another issue could be irregularity in your power distribution in your breaker panel. This can be a failing neighborhood transformer causing excessive voltage swings and phase changes or possibly the way your power system in you place is set up. As you go down the breakers, every other one feeds from the same leg of power input. Your home in the us has 2 legs that are 180 degrees out of phase. Your stove if electric and dryer, ac, furnace fan that are 220 typically take one slot from each leg. If everything else is running on one leg, stuff gets weird. I’m not saying it is one of these things, but could be. It could also be that your arduino has a weak power regulator or a bad power supply. These parts we are using are mass produced by the lowest bidder, so there is a chance of quality issues should any of the build items like the 15 cent power capacitor be sourced from the gray market. I’m sure there are many other conspiracy avenues we could imagine up. Perhaps some line quality measurements by your power company on your input feed would help or a time resolved voltage stability measurement of your circuit would provide some insight. I swapped two circuit breakers once to move two circuits in the house to a different input (don’t do this). I think the easiest thing to try is a new arduino for $13 from amazon, a new 12v power supply rated at 4amps (rig up any computer power supply… they put out 20+ amps 12 volts and 5. Volts too for the raspberry pi if you have one of those). Turn off the breaker and see what else can be taken off the circuit… A fan or space heater maybe… lots of lights, swap them for led to drop current on that circuit and try again. So those are some thoughts that might point a direction to help resolve your issue @rcooper.
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Great input, thank you. I think I’ve found a balance in the force with what and when to use. I haven’t had the issue in a while. I have considered the possibility of the arduino, I just didn’t realize they were so cheap. Great info. 
Costs a bit more money, but my home office and video room electronics are all powered through old-school line conditioners and have been for many years. I’ve used both Tripp and APC, had a Tripp fail after over 10 years and bought the current APC because Tripp wouldn’t sell me a part (the input voltage comparator started oscillating) but both are good units and the LC1200 is pretty reasonably priced at Mr. Bezos’s emporium. They’re isolation transformers with 3 stage tapped inputs, drop high voltages and boost low ones, but the real value is that most noise doesn’t make it through the transformers. The internet gear at the southern mooselake manor, in the self proclaimed lightning capital of the world, has survived 3 years years of running through one with no more than the normal Comcast problems. I plan to add one to the northern mooseshop (it’s going to need a separate fiber run that shares a 100’ underground conduit with the AC wiring) but it may take some effort to protect it from the swamprats, thinking a high voltage cage and conduit enclosed mains wiring, along with a separate food offering to distract them.
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Thanks for detailed explanation of possible causes and solutions. Do the AUX pins work on a “stock” Arduino for the spindle relay control? I will replace Arduino and powersupply first. I just had an “USB loss” again. Just 5 minutes before the cut would had been completed…
I am currently using the powersupply and Arduino/Head Setup which came with the metal maslow-kit.
Can anyone tell me where “+” and “-” on the round plug going into the arduino motor-head is?
Can you show us a picture? I’m not 100% certain that I’m thinking of the right plug, but if it’s the one from the power supply I’m pretty sure it’s center positive
The barrel connector the outer is typically ground and the center pin is +.
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I tried 3 cuts yesterday, all failed with “”“USB Loss”"" during the last operation. Since ive moved the PI close to the arduino, so i can use a short USB cable, connection loss increased like 10 times. I already did put ferrit cores on all of the cables. Seems worse since i did.
I know that the electricity, cabling and the “quality” of the electricity is shitty here. But the Arduino is the only equipment which constantly fails. 2 x raspberry PI 4 and one Raspberry PI Zero which i use as “maslow cam” work without any issues.
I need to go into production urgently and now the maslow is basicly non-functional. Ordering an building an alternative (Lowrider CNC) will take around 3 months… sic
The plug going into the motor shield. I need a supply which supplies >= 12V, 5A, correct?
If you have a computer power supply, wire the black wire as ground and the yellow is 12 V. Typicslly there is a green switch wire that must contact black to switch it on.
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Then, i am trying to get a new KEYESTONE Mega. There is a new Version which is called “Keyestudio Super Mega 2560 R3 Advanced 5V 2A MP2307DN”. The WIKI says:
" Note: the most important difference between keyestudio MEGA 2560 compatible board Advanced and keyestudio MEGA 2560 R3 board is the voltage regulator chip used in the board.
The voltage regulator chip used in keyestudio MEGA 2560 R3 board is NSP1117. When connect the external power, output 5V, the drive current is 1A. However, keyestudio MEGA 2560 compatible board Advanced features the voltage-regulator chip MP2307DN. When connect the external power, output 5V, the drive current can be 2A."
I supose a better voltage regulator chip could help? Its only i cant buy it here in Indonesia and there is only one seller from China on Ebay which has delivery times until may 