Can you try messing with these numbers?
That seems to have helped in some other cases
Sorry, I made a mistake, when replacing the encoders I reassembled the roller with the magnet in the wrong place.
I have a question though. Are the lid openings sufficient to cool the chip heatsinks? I ask because one of the chips that controls the motors burned out
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How hot is it where you are?
The cooling fan should be on whenever the driver chips are active which moves a pretty good amount of air.
You have the first one that I’ve heard of burning out, but it is for sure something to keep an eye on
But why, when you have to tension the straps to center yourself on the vertical frame, do the upper ones snap, while the lower ones do so slowly?
I’m not sure I understand. Can you tell me more?
I meant that when you apply tension to the upper straps on a vertical frame to center yourself on the panel, it does so abruptly, while the lower ones do so slowly.
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Ah I know what you are talking about. The upper ones only move a few mm though, right?
What you are seeing there is that the upper belts are actually just starting to position hold, but since their initial position is slightly off from where they want to be they sort of jump to get there, while the lower belts are gradually applying tension.
In theory it doesn’t need to be like that because of some of the changes made in 0.88 we can now work with the upper belts in any position so I should be able to make it so that the upper belts don’t need to move at all when applying tension
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after you think you have things tight, please go around and tighten again, just
in case anchors are in an odd place and pulling the bottom ones tight makes one
of the top ones slack
David Lang
I thought it could do it more calmly 
Honestly, I had to return to 0.87, the 0.88 blocks me at the beginning of the calibration. Sorry bar I would have some things to ask you …
Have you ever happened to you that the orange power connector is disconnected during the cuts?
I still have problems with the pause button, when I pretend it the sled stops but I can no longer start it again.
Now is it possible to reset the Z axis automatically?
Thanks
I have, I zip tied mine to the router power cord and that fixed it
The pause button will be removed in the next firmware version, it’s just not reliable right now.
What do you mean?
Enea wrote:
Now is it possible to reset the Z axis automatically?
z-stop could be set by just driving the Z to -60mm or so and assume that
somewhere along the way it stopped moving
Z=0 can be set with a sensor plate, there is a post showing the details of how
to do so.
David Lang
So at the moment there is no way to instantly stop the sled and then resume the job?
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Enea wrote:
So at the moment there is no way to instantly stop the sled and then resume
the job?
correct.
David Lang
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I must say that I was very surprised by your answer. If instead I press Stop after how long can it stop?
Enea wrote:
I must say that I was very surprised by your answer. If instead I press Stop
after how long can it stop?
hitting stop is an emergency stop, after you hit that you will have to detach
the maslow, retract the belts, and hook it up again (and it’s probably a good
idea to power cycle it first)
the pause problem is a bug that we don’t understand what’s wrong at this time.
David Lang
Ok, just know, but at this point leave it a button with that function.
Thank you.
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One possible aspect of the pause problem can be if the machine is currently processing a single line of GCode where it won’t finish that movement for several seconds, and therefore it won’t perform a ‘pause’ until it gets to the end of the current movement.
I still have to dig into the FluidNC code to find if this is the case or not though
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I can’t understand how to update to version 1.0
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I made a YouTube video to help with exactly that:
It’s still a little bit buggy though so you might want to wait a little bit to upgrade for us to get the kinks worked out.
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