Some Makita models are available, but not the good stuff
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I really want to know more details about the new version. Specifically what type of forces, speeds, and accuracies its capable of. Id also like to know about the steppers and drivers used, as well as what type of math is driving the new system. Are we leveraging an existing control architecture like marlin or klipper this time around or another homebrew base?
I’d also like to strongly suggest, if its not too late in the process to do so, that you go with a spindle instead of a router or at least ensure a readily available spindle is easily and securely swappable.
Aside from a wider (not to mention cheaper) availability of bits and collets to pick from, if the system is already spindle compatible then it will be even easier to swap in a laser head 
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FluidNC is the GRBL descendant from what it sounds like. runs on the ESP32.
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FluidNC is a greatly revised grbl_esp32 which as you might guess runs on an esp32.
I have a 6x8 (inches, not feet or meters) Zenbot Mini which I converted from LinuxCNC/Gecko G540 to one of Bart’s older grbl_esp32 controllers off Tindie, and a BobsCNC Revolution that’s using a generic ESPduino, a CNC Shield V3, and 4 DRV8825s to run a rotary (XZA) machine with FluidNC. The Revo controller is an uno form factor that dropped right in. If I hadn’t burned up the first ESPduino (seems you have to remove the through-hole 5V pullup resistor from the shield) it would have been $20 all in, instead it was under $30US. FluidNC doesn’t recommend this combination because of the resistor problem, but it has a lot of users. The only problems I’ve had with either is that the home switches are very noise sensitive at 3.3V and the software filtering wasn’t effective, and the Revo had a sticky switch that triggered (see what I did there) a software bug that’s supposedly been repaired. For whatever reason they changed the configuration interface in FluidNC (not grbl_esp32) without making it compatible with the old $$ scheme, thus breaking any gcode sender that checked config variables. I.e. most of them, UGS is the only one I’ve found that works although it does have A axis support in the visualizer, jogging, etc… The ZB will be upgraded to FluidNC when I get around to it, there’s a spare DEVKIT module sitting next to it. As you might have noticed I’m a FluidNC advocate.
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That is great feedback. Sometimes it’s hard for me to know what is available and where so knowing that the Dewalt isn’t available there is good motivation to create a spindle version.
I played around with both genuine and knock off versions of these and I found that the spindle gets really really hot. Like the router bit was getting too hot to touch even without cutting anything, just running in the air. I had one as a trim router and I also had issues with it burning things when cutting for a long time. It’s a bummer since the knock off ones are like $30 which would be a crazy good deal if they worked well.
The new version uses a trinamic stepper driver for the z-axis motors and then TI8873 motor drivers for the four servo axis. I haven’t fully decided on the gear ratio for the motors yet which will decide the final max speed, but it’s about 150 ipm which is frighteningly fast. @Orob and @mooselake are right that it’s an ESP 32 port of GRBL. I’m still running GRBL_ESP32 for various reasons, but hopefully it will ship with Fluid NC which is the latest version.
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I needed a new router/trimmer - this is what I could get here GKF 550 Palm Router | Bosch Professional (bosch-pt.co.in)
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Nobody seems to have answered this, the DeWilts are 69mm, the Makitas are 65mm. I have a real Makita in the Revo, and a clone (MLCS Rocky) that came with a non-CNC wood lathe fluting attachment that mostly gets used for little jobs like roundovers these days. Never noticed either running hot, including several hour runs on the Revo, but I’ll check closer after the arctic blasts return to whence they came and we migrate back north
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My makita doesn’t get hot, but my bauer knock-off does
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Thanks for posting this! I’m sorry…I’ve been trying to track down the DeWalt measurement but hadn’t found it yet. I wanted to post the Makita being 65mm, but didn’t want to give just a partial answer when someone was looking for both.
I have the Makita (on a BobsCNC Evolution 5) and have not had any issues with it getting hot either. It may be a little more open than what @bar is doing with the Maslow 4, so the built in air flow may be impeded with the Maslow 4 setup, causing it to run hot (maybe, IDK!!).
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thank you!
So just a 2 mm thick sleeve on the makita would make it a dewalt-size…
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could someone take a trip to the local stores and find the common trim router
diameters in your areas (especially outside the US)
it would be horrid to make this just a couple mm too small for the common
router, but I can understand not making it the 95mm or so needed for the old
router.
David Lang
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Should probably add length of the body too. Not as critical but would be good to have.
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It’s good to hear that other people’s Makitas don’t get too hot. I’ll give that another look. Mine gets crazy hot doing regular trim router work by hand, but maybe mine is defective or something 
A sleeve is also very much an option that’s worth exploring. Supporting multiple types of routers would be fantastic.
in terms of a spindle, aliexpress has a 800w spindle with ER chuck and power
supply for just over $100 delivered (5000-20000 rpm)
example: https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMqPaHq
given the difficulty in getting any particular router everywhere in the world,
support for a common thing like this should be available.
David Lang
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The two makitas I have run cool as well. Maybe a bad bearing?
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I like this idea as it gives us options, especially for those outside the US. The label for the spindle you linked to says it has a diameter of 52 mm. As @orob mentioned earlier, it should be possible to bush the size down to accommodate the smaller diameter spindles.
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It seems like I got lucky that the Dewalt is on the bigger side so it should be possible to make sleeves to support multiple options. I’ll make that a priority and try to test some.
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That’s the usual fix. They’re often 3D printed but enough wraps of any reasonable shim stock should do fine. I wonder if a couple warps of milk jug plastic would work?
Idealy @bar would go with a size that accommodates the largest size router and we can shim down from there. If using spindles then we would need a something more substantial like a 3d printed bushing or adapter collar.
I would think any firm shim material should would as long as the router/spindle is kept centered to the assembly.
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