i did now (again) set the chain parallel and still can lift up the sled effortlessly with my small finger (see first post in thread). There is no noticable effect regarding the tilting towards the top through paralel chain alignment.
The angle is about 2-3 degree from vertical but if i correct it towards 13 (now) -16 (planed), same as the working area, it should tilt even more easily towards the top, or not? Also notice that i already did attach 2.5KG extra weight at the bottom which i dont really want there.
To be honest, i am not sure how to resolve the situation. I can not test/vary angles with this frame. Someone will mod it for me it to a given angle. Which costs material and money for the work every time.
Possible options are:
Lowering the linkage system will probably somewhat reduce the problem but IMO not fully solve it.
Replace the linkage with a relativly flimsy and expensive ring system. A metal maslow user on FB reported that the ring-system did solve âall his problemsâ for him.Then i am not sure if a ring system will fit this setup with the metal maslow z-axis?! (@Metalmaslow)
Go for a far wider sled (14" to 16")
Increase the workspace angle to 17/18 degree?
Put a lot more weight on the bottom side. As the sled is already rel. heavy (15KG / 33 pounds, incl. the extra weight) this will put too much strain on the motors IMO (?!)
You just put some bricks or blocks of wood under the front 2 legs of the frame to tilt it back and test various angles takes less than a minute.
the ideas you gave are the same ones I already mentioned
making a wood sled and tilting it back with some bricks could probabaly be done in less then 1/2 hr.
or just buy a smaller router with bulkman3d clamp.
[quote=âMetalmaslow, post:22, topic:14579, full:trueâ]
You just put some bricks or blocks of wood under the front 2 legs of the frame to tilt it back and test various angles takes less than a minute.[/quote]
there is already wood unter the front wheels and if i put it up more i risk the frame to flip over backwards. I would need to bolt something to the wall to do this but then i still have probs with the wheels attached to the frameâŚ
For this i need to âde-weldâ (?) the old clamp first, which i cant and then weld the new one on⌠How about an alloy or 3D printed adapter for inside the clamp?
I can only i put one slice more under the âfeetâ and the effect is nearly not noticable. The worker making the frame f*** up the angle. I told him 14/15 degree, 15 degree had been on the construction drawing but its 11 degree without wood.
He did raise the linkage attachment to 10,5 inch (!!) and did set up the motors 1ft from the working area! Which makes sense because this should dramatically decrease tilting in any direction.
Ok, then i did misunderstood him. This looks higher than my 3 1/2 linkage raisers but the image can be deceiving. But with 10 1/2 raised motors the chains should normally not be parallel?!
that is not what he is saying. he raised the motor bar to 30" above. Anyways the most effective thing to get the sled to lay flat is to have a tilt of 15 degrees or slightly more. That is your main issue.
I did change to 16 degree (if the android app measures correctly) today and i can still lift the 13.5KG / 30lbs sled nearly effortlessly with my little finger. This cant be right.
Hey Arnd, I have a different setup now than the one in the picture above. I misunderstood how the risers were supposed to go but @MetalMaslow helped me through it. He is correct on my measurements above also, I increased the height of the top bar 10.5" above the stock frame (plus 1.5" for the metal top bar) to make it 30" above the workspace. The linkage is 3.5" above the work surface (just over 3" above the top of the metal base as seen in pic). Here is a current pic of my sled, it is cutting perfectly on MDF, Bass Plywood, and Aluminum too, last pic is some custom aluminum pieces we cut and printed on using Dye-Sublimation.
Thank you for detailed description. Thats interesting as my new linkage raisers are exactly 3 1/2 inch too. I had been looking for a pointer on how much to raise the motor position because i have a welded metal frame which is not this easy to change.
My 12" top bar is about 28" about workspace. How far did you position your motors away from the work-space? And whats your work-spaces angle? Standard 15"?
May i ask which bit you use for cutting alloy and which feed/plunge rates you are using? Alloy is on my to-cut list too. May i ask how you do the âDye-Sublimationâ printing?
for dye sub printing you need a ink jet printer with special dye sub ink. You print the photo in reverse and then use aluminum that has a special coating applied. put both in a heat shirt press or other heat source and the ink transfers from the paper to the aluminum clear coat. the ink is pretty expensive. typically cheaper to just send it to a photo lab to get done. A lot of photographers use it at art fairs to make their photos super shiny with saturated colors.
My frame angle is 105 degrees (or 15 degrees from vertical). My motors are about 6" forward of the vertical support leg (easiest place for me to measure it).
Metal Maslow did a good job of explaining Dye-Sublimation. I work at a place that makes things for photographers and fine artists to sell. We photograph original paintings and duplicate them on paper, canvas, metal, wood, glass, stone, etc. Our Metal Maslow allows us to offer custom shapes and sizes, as well as cut signs, letters and even picture frames. I need to do a better job of posting some of the neat stuff we have made.
Last thought, donât make it too complicated or try to go too fast. On my aluminum, I use a feed rate of 5" per minute, plunge rate of .3" per minute and .045" cut per pass (metal is .040") so I cut it in a single pass, really slowly. Edges are perfect, very little heat, and excellent result.
Correct as usual, mine is 3.5" from the work surface, 3" from the top of the sled.
Arnd, for the record my sled balance hangs at about 93 degrees, yours is 100 degrees which is probably where most of the problem lies. Reduce linkage height to 3" above top of sled and remove extra weight, then I think you will see the results you are looking for. All of our other numbers are the same, so it must be the linkage height. I am having nothing but fun and good results with mine and I wish you the same.
P.S. I forgot, I am using a single flute 4mm bit from Amazon for the metal. It has 20+ cuts on it and still working beautifully.
I just figured it out @Arnd. Your wasteboard angle is at 112 degrees, which is 22 degrees from vertical, not 12 degrees. Vertical is 90 degrees. Lower that angle to 105 and I bet you are a LOT closer. I still think you should lower the linkage to 3" above the top of the sled also and remove the extra weight, but that 22 degree wasteboard angle is your problem.
I had it at this angle for testing. I did buy an angle meter, the original frame is only 11 degree from 90 instead of the 15 degree it should have. Currently i am using 14/15 degree.
