My metal maslow @Metalmaslow sled keeps tilting away from the board when it goes towards the top of the frame. Any ideas why? I have a rigid router.
Also the z axis makes a clicking sound whenever it moves. It looks like it is reversed as when I hit plung, it raises so I changed it to a negative number.
if your frame is sloped 15 degrees from vertical, then your chains are too close to the base of your sled because you are using a heavy router and the center of gravity is too high. Lift the chains and maybe space the motors out as well.
I found this picture on another post on the forum today:
you want your sled to hang like #4 so it matches the slope of your frame. The problem is when the sled is at the top of he board, the chains are not holding the sled from the top/front of the sled, but from the side, so if you are using a long 1/4" bit, the router is back away from the cutting surface and the sled can tilt back. By spacing the chains out, they pull the sled back forward into the work piece.
@Orob thank you for the help. I measured the angle and it was just about 15 degrees. What do you mean by “lift the chains”? For spacing out the motors, I have a 12 foot top beam and I have each motor 1 foot away from edge. Should I move it out to 12 feet? I think I only have a chain that supports 10 feet.
you are missing silver spacers under linkage arm send us an email and we will mail you some and an extra belt
Worn out belts often skip and make clicking noise. Or your six white clear wheels are too tight or your lead screw nut is too tight. Does the z axis go up and down easily when turned by hand?
@Metalmaslow thank you. I’ll send an email. Anything I can do for a temporary solution at Home Depot that you know of?
For the z axis it doesn’t move at all. Not sure how to manually make it move.
this is the belt. Doesn’t look worn.
the arrows representing z axis movement show the direction the chain can be moved. up and away from the spoil board or down towards the sled. It is the spacing attachment from sled that matters in this case.
“Lifting the chains” as I was trying to describe is increasing the distance between the green and yellow parts. In doing so, the red beam must be moved the same direction as the green plat to keep the chains parallel to the blule work piece.
1.5” piece of hardwood with two holes drilled in it and two 1/4-20 machine screws 2.5” long for each side
Or a piece of metal tube any hard material to put under resisting spacers
You manually move z axis same way the motor does by turning it with your hand. Take off router clamp and loosen the two black center machine screws with Allen key Then try moving the z-axis if it moves smoother slowly tighten them up so they are just snug double check it still moves and then reassemble
Thanks headed to Home Depot. Would plastic spacers work too? I’m raising the arms right? It looks like a can raise a bit before The router would hit when lowered.
Also, do you know what size screws I need to attach vacuum attachment?
Metric m5 screws about 30mm long
Most plastics are not very ridgid but if you have a big block say 9x2x1.5” it would be fine
I’m having the same issue except in reverse. The bottom of my sled tilts away from the board. The router bit looses contact with the board at times. My frame is the modified version posted from Maslow. The only difference is I mounted mine on the wall. And still having an occasional issue with chain wrap also.
So as the sled is moving up, it lifts the bottom end of the sled off the work piece?
That sounds like the front of your sled is catching or your frame is too steep (less than 15 degrees from vertical?) or your chains are too high off the sled or are not parallel to the work surface.
I did finally get the degrees correct. Unfortunately for me, I had let someone else cut my frame (assuming they knew what they were doing…NOT). You are correct, it wasn’t at 15 degrees. I made the adjustment and now the sled is in direct contact with the material. It also solved all but one of my problems. Chainwrap still continues to happen from time to time. Getting ready to place an order for the chain guard/guide.
parallel chains will help reduce the wrap:
move the top beam away from the frame until the chains run parallel to the work piece / work surface. The chain height should be adjusted at the sled with the ring height so the sled rides easily flat against the work piece and then set the top beam distance from the frame to keep your chains straight.
Thank you. This was actually one of the modifications I made when I rebuilt the frame. It has helped. But I’m still afraid to turn my back on it while it’s cutting. LOL. I think I’ll rest easier once the chain guide is in place. I just posted in No Judgement. I’ve downloaded the file for the chain guide peeler. But I don’t know where to send the file to for creation of the guide.
I just realized I posted that same picture twice on your thread… let me get my printer hooked back up and I’ll print you a set. How soon do you need them?
[quote=“brushing1456, post:16, topic:13287, full:true”] I’ve downloaded the file for the chain guide peeler. But I don’t know where to send the file to for creation of the guide.
Just search for online 3D print services in your country / area. Or search for a makerspace possibly close by.
Something like this:
I am waiting for my Prusa mk3s printer atm
No hurry. This is greatly appreciated!
You can send me payment information etc to my email address. It’s difficult for me to find the ending threads here.
Thank you so much for your assistance!