Iāll just print them as pdf from visio then. Hereās step 2.
step 2.pdf (342.7 KB)
here it is as a svg.
what font are you using in visio?
we want to do a step 1-folding where instead of glue/screws there is a bolt for this joint.
Calibri-12, the font is.
Wouldnāt you still want the block (green) to be glued/screwed? Screwed with enough spacing on the pattern so you could pass a bolt through it. Perhaps you drill a hole in the block, glue and screw it and use the hole as a guide to drill through the leg and kicker?
What size whole for the collapsible frame?
Calibri-12, the font is.
Wouldnāt you still want the block (green) to be glued/screwed? Screwed with enough spacing on the pattern so you could pass a bolt through it. Perhaps you drill a hole in the block, glue and screw it and use the hole as a guide to drill through the leg and kicker?
you are correct, I meant step 2-folding, sorry
What size whole for the collapsible frame?
Iām thinking 3/8" or 1/2", I think 1/4" is too small.
I would go with a 3/8" bolt, it is easier for most people to find a drill bit slightly over 3/8 than it is for over 1/2" and 3/8" is way stronger than what is required.
hi !
I am planning to get a maslow too.
I live in Europe > Netherlands (English is not my primary language), forgive my rudeness.
The measurements are all in inches , and i want to buy my stuff at the local woodshop.
These two are common :
The 44x94 mm is a good replacement for your 2x4ā (38x39mm) ?
I will try to remodel āalternate 3ā in my tools that i understand.
Help would be nice 
What would be possible conversion problems with alternate 3 ?
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3/8-inch bolt with a 13/32-inch drill bit. Seems nominal.
I like the idea of doing a conversionā¦ it would be some work though. Are those sizes common throughout Europe or just the Netherlands? (forgive my ignorance)
I am going my whole live to woodshops , but the only standard that i could find is , that ,if they sell a given size , that they will sell it in the next 5 years too. Hahaha :). Yeah the length is easily more standard. But yeah maybe better to not ask me. I will ask my friends tomorrow.
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Iām in the UK and built a studwall type frame using metric timber. I replaced the 2x4 with 38mm x 99mm, and found a load of bargain-bin studwork, which if I remember correctly was 38mm x 68mm.
I only used a malet, a handsaw (japanese pullsaw), a tape and a square, a chisel and a power hand drill.
I admit, it wasnāt the quickest build, but it went together well and is super ridgid - I can climb around on it.
I am in rental accom, so need it to be moveable. As such I didnāt glue it so that it could be taken apart again with a malet. In the end, to stop any potential of joints drifting open I went around and stuck a Kreg pocket hole on each of the joints to hold it fast, but doubt it really needed it.
I needed to use ratchet straps with the malet to drift the perimeter frame together.
It currently rests against the wall, but Iāve made three triangular supports for it also.
If youād like the Sketchup file Iād be happy to send it your way, and to anyone else for that matter.
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Iāve mentioned it before, but it is probably worth putting something on the build instructions about lumber selection. Nothing too verbose, but just some guidance to those not used to some of the lumber trade tricks; that time spent selecting good straight, stable lumber will save you time, money and heartache.
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This could be as simple as stating the measurements is both systems (and overriding the metric ones to get reasonably round numbers)
The only place a distance really matters is in the amount the kickers stick out from the front legs, everything else could easily be off by a 1/2" and not matter, so rounding things to the nearest cm should be no problem (need to double check that the top crossbar spacing is within the height of sheet goods), we just need to make sure that the cut list is reasonable
looking though the site, it looks like you have 330cm as a common size (just under 11ā) and both 2x4ish (44x94) and 2x3ish (44x63) commonly available. I would seriously consider the 2x3ish for everything but the top beam, it will be plenty strong enough (2x3s are not as common in the US)
The idea is to use cheap stud material for the frame, so whatever that is in your area will work fine.
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Question on machine angle. The dimensions listed here result in a tilt-back of ~10 degrees.
Is this a good angle, or do we need it tilted back further?
Hi, iām from belgium. The reason all our wood has these wierd, not rounded, sizes, sheets 1220x2440mm, beams of 44x94, and the beams come in 300mm increments ,ā¦ Is that they are actually inch sizes where they just stick mm labels on, so youāll have no problem finding the correct sizes once you convert them from inches.
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the world used inch sizes to build for a long time, and the lumber needs to match existing buildings, so most dimensions are just conversions (and the term ānominal dimensionsā gets used a lot)
it looks like lengths are one place where things are rounded to nice numbers in whatever system (2ā increments in the US, 300mm lengths elsewhere)
When I was doing the drawings for my design, I really started to worry about where the CoG was when I had a 10 degree angle. Thereās a lot of weight being put out to the front. Even if it doesnāt fall on its own, it will get bumped from time to time.
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How about making it adjustable? Shouldnāt be too difficult. I use 17 degrees.
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OT. Metric vs inch debates come up regularly, and in one I was told that itās impossible to design anything in inches. Once I stopped laughing (it was online so they couldnāt hear) I asked a recent top of her class MIT architecture grad; MIT teaches in feet and inches.
Personally I think we went wrong when the Sumerian system was abandoned for everything except time. Too many standards, too many politics (of course this means french vs english around the time of the French revolution). At least the metric system is honest. I want the extra half inches I get charged for in my 2x4s
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We started this discussion with an adjustable design and changed it because Bar wanted to go in a different direction
If you were to remove the kickers from this design (and put tabs under the center crossmember to hold your material), and include the optional rear crossmember, you could hinge the legs out to whatever angle you want (include some sort of rope/chain to keep them from going out too far)
but making it adjustable doesnāt address the problem of what the default should be.