New workable router

I’m going to try this router (if it quits raining when I can use the machine): http://amzn.to/2DMU4Dn
Cheaper at Home Depot: https://thd.co/2zWc6Vq - $70
1.5HP
Model # R1631K
Cost (approx): $70
Collet size: 1/4"
Ease of attaching Z-axis: Easy
Shaft connector size: 1/2"
Variable speed (y/n): n
Illuminated (y/n): y
Dust collector (y/n): not included, but I’ll design one and put it on Thingiverse

Z-adjust is sloppy, and I’m pretty sure Maslow can overdrive it :frowning:
But the vibration moves it to a consistent point…
It even looks like it has the same Z screw pitch.

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It looks like the lock lever is adjustable so the z-adjust could be workable. I wonder whether the lack of variable speed is a concern, though. I’ve found I need to play with the speed to get clean cuts.

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The variable speed would be my only concern. You might find that you burn up bits more quickly when the spindle speed is so high. I think from a mechanical perspective it should work!

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When you do, could you let me know? I picked up one of those from https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/ for $35. Seems like they have them every now and again. There is a thread about it at Deal on routers
At that price it made sense as a secondary router.

I echo the speed, Maslow travels slower, if you use any bit more that 2 flutes it can start a fire, and even at 2 you will be burning the tip. :man_firefighter:
I have that router and built it into a router table. It works great for that.

Good to know, that’s the plan for mine :slight_smile: Did you DIY the router table? I am thinking of cutting a space in one of my work surfaces (re-purposed 1-1/2" thick laminate countertop) for a 3/8" acrylic router plate. I like that the router is height adjustable through the plate, and even more that the tool that comes with the Ridgid router fits the adjusting nut! Now if I can figure out the dust collection…

Speaking of, there is one available now for $32
https://www.directtoolsoutlet.com/products/power-tools/ryb-fixed-base-router-rcn-zrr163gk

Yea mine is not fancy, found an old craftsman 1 foot by 1 foot metal router table, and inserted into 3/4 plywood to have a larger table. router mounts in the metal part, and there is a small fence for doing straight cuts. Kinda handy item to clean op edges of Maslow cut projects. The adjustment on this router is identical to the Ridgid, in fact I think they maybe the “same item different wrapper” and works great for my table. I bought it to replace the Ridged when I had Z axis troubles, but the speed was too fast to cut without slowing it down.

You could probably slow it down with one of these:

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What rpm is suggested for router with 1 flute? – 2 flute?

depends on the feed rate and material. It is based upon the chip load created.
a formula for calculating feed rate:

a formula for calculating feed rate: ChipLoad x CutterDiameter x NumberOfFlutes x SpindleSpeed = FeedRate

Click the link to get to the page that I found that formula

Another link that might be helpful in understanding the relationships (though wood is not an included material)
http://www.daycounter.com/Calculators/GCode/Feed-Rate-Calculator.phtml

and another:
http://www.precisebits.com/tutorials/spindle_rpm_selection.htm

I pretty much leave mine around 11k rpm

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good to know :slight_smile:

I am using the Ridgid R2901 router with the R2911 fixed base. I have made some measurements on the Z axis slop with a micrometer and the lead screw has approximately 2.8mm of movement when reversing the direction of the drive. I have adjusted the motor clamp so there is minimal side to side slop and I can still move the motor with out a lot of force. I have polished the surface of the motor and base with steel wool for minimal friction.

Update: I eliminated the Z axis slop with a slightly modified 3/8" flat washer . I enlarged the ID to 1/2 " to slip over the end of the lead screw. I am attaching photos showing the mod.

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Yeah, it’s very sloppy because the “lift lever” (whatever that thing is called) isn’t really held “horizontal”… OTOH, with the vibration from the router, I’ve found it usually hits a reliable depth (then again, I’ve only used the 1/4 spiral upcut bit, so it might have a tendency to “walk out” of the cut with a roundover or ball-end bit). I got it because it was cheap, and it looked better than the Harbor Freight offerings.

Another tip - if you’re using this router, double the bricks. This is much lighter than the Ridgid, so you can see the chains vibrating during moves…