Silly Cut Paths and Oval Holes

Hello!

I’m totally new to using a cnc but this has been a super fun learning experience. It hasn’t been without issue though. There a couple problems I haven’t been able to get past.

  • Cut a couple holes towards the bottom left corner of a 4x8 sheet, both are oval (taller than they are wide). Other holes in the sheet are pretty much round.

  • I have 5 keyhole shaped cuts spaced across the board for draw bolts. They are .10mm deep on a 12mm board. Instead of cutting each keyhole individually, the M2 cuts one pass and moves to the next. When it reaches the last keyhole, it goes back to the first and starts the next pass.

Any insight would be much appreciated!

  • Cut a couple holes towards the bottom left corner of a 4x8 sheet, both are oval (taller than they are wide). Other holes in the sheet are pretty much round.

The maslow is a very repeatable machine, but it has many, and very complex
sources of error (there is a forum thread with that name that I started that
explains some of them). The calibration needs work as most of the sources of
error we don’t even try to address yet.

  • I have 5 keyhole shaped cuts spaced across the board for draw bolts. They are .10mm deep on a 12mm board. Instead of cutting each keyhole individually, the M2 cuts one pass and moves to the next. When it reaches the last keyhole, it goes back to the first and starts the next pass.

These are easy, that’s a setting in your CAM step (that converts your drawing to
gcode), look for a setting along the lines of ‘depth first’ to have it go all
the way down in one hole before moveing on to the next.

David Lang

Thanks David! I was hoping it would be more accurate. On hole measures 8.12X11.36mm!

I’m using Easel Pro for CAM software. Cant seem to find that setting anywhere, including Google. Do you have another piece of software you would recommend?

Thank you!

Wade

the accuracy issue is not the CAD/CAM (but you can compensate for it there by
distorting things to correct for the error)

what software are you using to run the maslow and what calibration type are you
using? The holey calibration (and there is now a similar one for makerverse as I
understand it) is far better than the older version where you just cut shapes
near the center until they were square.

going through the calibration again, making sure to use a good quality tape
measure, and make careful measurements is the place to start.

Another thing to look for is while the machine is running, is anything in the
frame flexing?

people are getting better results than that.

David Lang

Im using Makerverse to run the Maslow. I used the calibration system they have baked in. It moves the sled to 6 different points on the canvas and you measure from sled to edge. I used digital calipers. Makerverse software says target accuracy should be less than 3mm. Im at 2.4mm. No flex in the frame that I can detect. I read somewhere that accuracy falls off in the lower corners, which would make sense as this is the only place I’m experiencing the issue. Center of the workspace is very accurate.

I figured the accuracy was something to do with calibration and not software. I was thinking switching CAM software might allow me to fix the “depth first” issue.

Thanks!

yes, in the lower corners, the force to move the sled towards the corner is the
least, and the weight of the chain going the other way is the highest. If you
can go to a 12’ top beam it significantly improves things there.

Also, check the dimensions of the workpiece, if it’s off a few mm from what you
expect it to be, it will hurt. some plywood sheets are very reliable, others not
so much.

David Lang

Hi David, a little update. Easel was generating inefficient cut paths for the keyhole shapes because there was a line intersecting them (border of the piece). Milling these separately alleviated the issue.

I’ve tried re-calibrating the M2 multiple times but I’m still having lots of accuracy issues. Precisely measured the plywood, frame, all the distances to the millimeter. It seems everything I cut is off a little bit. I’m totally at a loss.

how good a tape measure are you using? cheap ones can be off quite a bit (search
for class 2 tape measures to find a topic discussing this)

David Lang

I have a bunch of tapes that are nicer but def class 2. I do synchronize them but hey maybe it could be a problem.