TLE5206 PowerControl Boards

I completely agree and currently run a dedicated wireless network for a several machines like 3d printers in my garage. The hope was to not pick up a new tablet or raspberry pi and instead keep things simple. But oh well, I suppose you really cant have too much pi in your life. :wink:

Sorry to hijack the thread.

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Welcome, @gmihovics! We’re glad you’re here and contributing to the discussion. Threads here wander off into new territory all the time, so no sweat.

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Count me in for group ordering.

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And count me in for group ordering too

You can count me in on that too

I have looked at a few fans for a standard connector and I’m not sure there is one. The ones I use are 12v and have mini JST connectors. I soldered pins at a right angle coming off the shields 12v in. It’s pretty ghetto :frowning:

Thank you

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I keep thinking about how to make these boards plug and play compatible with the firmware. It would be really nice to not have to maintain two branches of the firmware.

Would it be possible to set the pins which are currently used to detect the board version to be high using input_pullup and then if we detect board version 1111 (all high) check the pins that this version uses to indicate board version number?

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why not change this board to work with the existing board version detection
rather than having a different way of indicating version?

still reserve 1111 for ā€œexceeds limits, check second methodā€, but we aren’t
there yet so just assign a slot for this board

Using pullups will work. Are you amenable to having the version pins as #defines in config.h as the TLE5206 branch does?
I think we can ignore pins 52 & 53 for a start, they’re always low on versions 1-3 and not used on the TLE5206 board.
I’ve opened a PR with what I’m talking about.

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Boy, howdy! :grin::+1:

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The existing version detection setup uses two of the pins that would be useful for SPI, and aren’t needed to identify any of the boards in present circulation. At the same time, adding a couple more version detection pins so that the routine will be ready to accommodate future versions makes sense.

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Ok, if those pins aren’t used on any existing board, define different pins to
use instead, but don’t force those two pins to be pulled high or it will cause
problems with other uses

Are these MOSFETs able to be driven by a 3.3v arduino board, or only 5v? Is
there an easy way to make the board 3.3v safe?

Yes, the TLE5206 is compatible with 3.3v logic levels. :+1:

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I’m getting way to far behind in my forum reading…

Count me in for a group buy, too, if it’s not too late. More than willing to contribute to the effort even if the maslow is still collecting dust in the otherwise empty shop. Soon as the post-snowmelt mud firms up a bit…

So just how fast will the current motors spin at 40V, or rather how much can they be juiced up before the magic smoke departs? Will the current limiting allow the extra voltage to help with getting the motors up to speed quicker, like the equivalent use to overcome stepper motor inductance?

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I’ve brought the TLE5206 fork of firmware up to v1.14, even with the main firmware which brought many improvements.

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one more thought on this. Can we get LEDs on the input pins to the board and
some easy way to put some on the output of the MOSFETs so that it can be a
simple ā€œare the LEDs blinking togetherā€ diagnostics to find blown MOSFETS (and
other simple diagnosis, like loose power cords :slight_smile: )

I’ve been looking at a daughter board that could be plugged into a motor circuit at either the motor or board end. It would make measuring voltage easy, and could allow a current measurement as well. LEDs on that would resolve between a bad drive, a bad cable and motor and a bad motor. A red/green LED across the M+ and M- would give the info you’re describing. A final plus is that a quadrature encoder divider would fit there nicely.
On the TLE5206 board itself, the chips have thermal and over-current shutdown. I’ve driven the output directly into an ammeter to see what high current would do - the output drops, but is normal again when the meter is removed. The ā€˜blown chip’ issue should be much rarer on these boards.

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Lights would be nice. It would also help with the aux pins for router shutoff and auto zeroing the z-axis. Just one more level of confirmation that everything is working together.

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And every project is better with more LEDs

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