What your Maslow NEEDS to work 100%

I’ve put together a kit that will let you use your Maslow without overheating or the chains coming off accidentally, plus a much needed case for the circuit boards.

Everything’s produced to high tolerances, molds were made for the case and the expensive epoxy-glass material is extremely durable. These first 10 units are my cost (plus I’m including the shipping.) Later units will be $75 after everyone finds out how well this kit works.

I’m only selling 10 kits at $50 to get the word out.

You get the Water Cooler, Chain Guards, epoxy-glass Case and FREE SHIPPING.

eBay item number: 183340733344

Here’s the eBay link:

There are photos on the eBay listing and I welcome any questions.


Looks good. One question, will the pump and hose hold up to using RV antifreeze for use up north in the colder winter climates to prevent it from freezing?

It should work fine and would probably make the pump last longer.
The two components I make (Water Block & Case) are designed to outlast the rest of the Maslow.

The tubing and pump are easily replaced should they ever need to be. (Stick the ends in boiling water to soften then slip on.)

The copper is very thick and I don’t ever see that wearing out.

Iv’e never had an issue with the epoxy and any chemicals.(Even stripper designed to eat epoxy takes days to get through this stuff when I clean the mixer.)

The water block is copper.

The case is made from fiberglass filled epoxy.

The tubing is 5/16"OD-3/16"ID Vinyl tubing expanded over 1/4" so any minor changes shouldn’t be an issue.

The Pump is a brushless DC submersible pump. (About $10 on eBay)

The chain guards and the colling went together because overheating could actually cause the chains to pop off.

One axis motor would stop and the other wouldn’t, thus stretching and twisting everything until the chian came off with a loud bang as the flexed frame popped back into place.

This always ruined the workpiece and the router was flung to the floor running. (NOT GOOD)

My testing on the water block shows it can remove 50 times more heat from the IC than the tiny heatsink.

The limiting factor is that even pressed up against cold copper, the IC itself can only transfer so much heat through it’s case.

Another test with a propane torch blasting the entire heat sink pad on the water cooler only raises the temperature about 1 degree celsius.

I’m selling a few of these at cost to get the word out then hopefully they take off.

Iv’e spent a fair amount of money on materials, designing, testing, molds…

Thanks for looking,

Tim Dodge

Can you explain the chain guard? Is it actually touching the chain? It certainly looks like it in the eBay photos. This would create drag obviously and would be a problem. Or is it just above the chain so that if it hops it does so in a way that keeps it on the chain after? Really good idea btw. I have a 3D printer and could make the case and source these parts myself to achieve the same thing - but if you have a working kit… why would I do that? Much easier to buy from you.

Please update me on my question and I just may buy one.
Thank you!

you should email Bar and ask him to put this on the Maslow Store, Looks like a good solution for cooling that circuit board down.

The washers are very smooth and run over the surface of the sprocket, flexing and keeping the chain pressed in.

They are a flexible non-work-hardening stainless steel and don’t need to be oiled.

If the chain ever seems like it’s getting dry definitely oil that. I don’t think the chain is stainless and you don’t want any rust.

As far as 3D printing the case I thought about it but you just can’t match the strength and rigidity of cast epoxy-glass.

I wanted a case that should be able to withstand a solid whack with a 2x4 in the event anything went flying.

When I have some free time I’ll put a page together with some of the testing.

Usual stuff… under the car tire, beating it with a 2x4, blowtorch only raising the temperature a tiny bit.

Here’s the measured comparison of power the tiny heatsink can dissipate versus Water Cooling:

Tiny Heat Sink with convection, 4.4 Watts of heat dissipation for the IC surface to reach 75°C at a room temperature of 24°C. (The Heat sink is limiting the cooling)

Tiny Heat Sink next to THREE powerful 5" fans, 14.9 Watts of heat dissipation for the IC surface to reach 75°C at a room temperature of 24°C. (The Heat sink is limiting the cooling)

Water Cooling, 119.9 Watts of heat dissipation for the IC surface to reach 75°C at a room temperature of 24°C. (The IC material is limiting the IC’s cooling.)

As the driver IC is rated for 25 watts of power dissipation, it’s not possible for the Tiny Heat Sink to cool adequately :frowning:

I recommend gooping up the driver IC with the supplied heat sink compound. It’s electrically non-conductive and will use the pins to draw out even more heat from the chip inside the package.

The PDF for the 120 Thermal Grease included: http://www.wakefield-vette.com/resource-center/downloads/brochures/thermal-management-accessories-wakefield.pdf

I see others have already figured out to add some big rubber bands to pull the router down. (Depending on your router and if you have the Z-Axis.)

Interesting that they’re flexible. They look metal so I’m really curious to see how they flex exactly (and no, I am not saying this in any tone that’s condescending or cantankerous - I’m genuinely intrigued). I’m also curious just how much drag they are indeed adding to the chain though.

I haven’t set my Maslow up yet (gotta clean out the garage first and that’s a TALL TALL order), so I can’t be certain how the chain operates normally anyway, and thus I have no judgement of how necessary this kit is. While I’m not on the forums every day here, I haven’t really seen a ton of people complaining about the chain popping off or of the arduino board overheating.

I’m gonna have to accelerate my setting up of the Maslow so I can make a determination on whether or not to get your kit.

Does this kit (specifically the chain guards) fit the single-top-beam design? Our chain comes off the top of the motor sprockets almost horizontally (along the beam) to the middle where it meets the counterweight stuff. In the photos on Ebay it is hard to tell the max angles of the chain before they impact those guards.

Send a photo of they setup you plan to use and I’ll look at it.

You could probably get away with using one instead of two if the second one gets in the way. That will still keep the chain engaged if you want to remove the sled and keep the chain on the sprocket.

With the original design it seemed like the chain being too slack allowed it to roll around the sprocket. The top design may keep more tension on the chain preventing that.

(As I’m not using that design myself, I’m speculating.)

1 Like

Hey Tim, I got the chip cooler you sent. Just want to confirm that the wire soldered to the copper tubing plugs into the Arduino board for grounding purposes?

Yes, it’s for static. There is no center pin so no worry about using the power port, it’s just for grounding.

Some people are using shop-vacs in dry environments and if it’s next to the water bucket I could see a problem, so I added that as a precaution.

After you get it set up please send a photo.

I recommend gluing a small 2x4 on the back to mount to. That way the screws don’t hit the router bit should you go too deep.

On mine I wanted a very rigid board so I sandwiched some fiberglass between two sheets of plywood and weighed it down an a flat surface while it hardened, then added ribs to keep it flat (overkill).