The water cooler kit is now available for both versions of the shield 1.1 & 1.2b

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I have an updated listing for the Water Cooling kit that includes a sturdy case and Chain Guards to prevent the chains from coming off when you don’t want them to. There are two water blocks to pick from so just look at the version on your shield P.C.B.

If you bought in the first two runs my understanding is you should have version 1.1
Currently 1.2b is being sold with the kits.

Please look on the Shield PCB to be sure before ordering.
Orders placed this week will ship out Friday because more power supplies are coming in Friday.

Here’s the link to the eBay listing:

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Hey Tim, I didn’t realize there were 2 different boards when I ordered my water cooler. As I will be receiving my Maslow sometime in the next 2 weeks (or less) I am guessing I will be getting the 1.2b board and I got the 1.1 cooler. Just a couple of questions about the cooler I received from you.
Is the epoxy glass case the same for either version?
Can I just modify the copper plates on the kit I have to work on the 1.2b board (grind the plate on the left side of the tubing and solder extra copper on the right side)?
Thanks
Jim

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Hi Jim,

Yes, the case is the same.

But about the water block…

It’s probably better to just send it back and I’ll swap it out. (For the life of me I can’t see why they would move the IC’s knowing users are making stuff to fit it.)

The copper on the one you have is 0.6" wide on both sides and the 1.2b is 0.7" on the left and 1.0" on the right. (I made it that way to avoid the positive connection on the back of the DC Jack on the shield board. )

It’s pretty hard to solder to the copper because it requires a lot of heat.

I clamp everything into position, flood it with flux and use a propane torch then machine it flat and wire brush the flux residue off.

If you don’t have everything clamped into position when you solder, it will suck the copper into a position from the tension forces (like a surface mount component).

Plus after soldering, the two plates are machined flat then lapped for a smoother finish and better heat conduction.

However, total accuracy isn’t very important on this product because the water block can remove more heat than the IC’s can generate at full power by a factor of 5.

The limiting factor on getting heat out of these IC’s are that they are cooled though the plastic surface and not the metal pad, but with water cooling it never gets more than a little warm.

I recommend heat sink compound over the entire IC and the pins. The stuff included is fairly non-conductive electrically. That will not only help remove heat, it will help keep the sawdust from getting between the pins.

If I were king, every PCB would have conformal coating by law!

I’m putting a PDF together this week with photos.

I’m just waiting on a photo back from a user with the 1.2b to include it all assembled.

Feel free to reply if you have any other questions and I’ll get back to you,

Tim

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Thanks for getting back to me so quick. If it all fits without the copper plates touching any contacts it should work as is I would think. If needed I could just JB Weld a couple of strips of copper on the right side on each leg.seeing as there will be a coating of the heat sink compound between the chip and the copper.
Thanks again
Jim

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Well, if your going to do it wrong, do it the best wrong way possible…

Smear a tiny bit of heat sink compound onto the two flat surfaces of the water block. It’s silicone so nothing will stick to the flat surfaces after that. Then place the water block on some parchment paper (nothing sticks to parchment paper, it’s also soaked in silicone) on a very flat surface like kitchen formica. Place a small amount of weight on the two open ends and the U shaped end. Make sure the copper is flat. Butt up your extra copper pieces after greasing up the flat bottom of each. Before mixing up your JB weld, cut small pieces of solid copper wire to embed in the JB weld. Places a thin coat of JB weld on the water block and the extension then set the pieces of wire on top of the two parts. Let it set up (don’t pick it up!) mix up more JB weld and blob it up. Be ready with a razor blade and once the JB weld on your mixing sick starts to harden you have a few seconds where it’s easy to trim if the excess from the water block. Let it harden overnight and you should be good to go the next day. Of all else fails Send it back and I’ll swap it out.

~Tim

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