Yes, the case is the same.
But about the water block…
It’s probably better to just send it back and I’ll swap it out. (For the life of me I can’t see why they would move the IC’s knowing users are making stuff to fit it.)
The copper on the one you have is 0.6" wide on both sides and the 1.2b is 0.7" on the left and 1.0" on the right. (I made it that way to avoid the positive connection on the back of the DC Jack on the shield board. )
It’s pretty hard to solder to the copper because it requires a lot of heat.
I clamp everything into position, flood it with flux and use a propane torch then machine it flat and wire brush the flux residue off.
If you don’t have everything clamped into position when you solder, it will suck the copper into a position from the tension forces (like a surface mount component).
Plus after soldering, the two plates are machined flat then lapped for a smoother finish and better heat conduction.
However, total accuracy isn’t very important on this product because the water block can remove more heat than the IC’s can generate at full power by a factor of 5.
The limiting factor on getting heat out of these IC’s are that they are cooled though the plastic surface and not the metal pad, but with water cooling it never gets more than a little warm.
I recommend heat sink compound over the entire IC and the pins. The stuff included is fairly non-conductive electrically. That will not only help remove heat, it will help keep the sawdust from getting between the pins.
If I were king, every PCB would have conformal coating by law!
I’m putting a PDF together this week with photos.
I’m just waiting on a photo back from a user with the 1.2b to include it all assembled.
Feel free to reply if you have any other questions and I’ll get back to you,