So z axis was cutting normally all of the sudden went crazy plunged all the way through my frame. Now won’t go back to zero seems like it need to be re programed. Anyone can help?
need to see pictures, but if this is the ‘stock’ ridgid router, the router
probably popped lose from the latch.
David Lang
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I see two things here.
First, it appears that the part angles in the gcode that is displayed do not match those that are cut.
Second, you are cutting awfully close to the edge of the workpiece without any support for the outer edge of the sled.
My guess is one of your problems is your sled is tipping a bit when it gets too far over the edge.
Yeah any idea why the gcode when uploaded on to makerverse is in a completely different area?
Where would I place the guards to keep it from tilting?
im not sure what is happening in makerverse because i dont use it. its odd though and maybe somone with more experience can figure that out. im going to tag @MakerMadeCNC to see if they can help.
Regarding the sled support. There is no hard and fast rule but the idea is to give something for the sled to ride on when cutting near the edge of a workpiece so its not cantilevered over the edge. it could be something as simple as a piece of scrap that is the same thickness as the material that you are trying to cut. do a quick forum search for “feather board” and you will see pictures of what users have been doing. When i can get to my machine i can upload a picture to show you what i do.
Did the sled ride that board leaning against the frame and lift off … Maybe if it were going down.
The makerverse picture shows it going to the far right first and the cutting upward. The sled hit the board on the side and then as it cut upward and the board wasn’t in the way, it moved over. Your sled hangs over the cut by 9 inches, so you must clear everything around your cut area at least that much.
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Okay so it’s not a permanent guard. Basically you would change it every time you change a material thickness.
What do you use instead of makerverse?
Correct, except it’s not so much a guard as it is an extension of the work surface.
Here’s an example of a recent setup of mine:
I was working with piece of material that was an odd size and shape. I wanted to cut parts out from close to the edges of the material. So I had to place feather boards along the sides of the material so that when my sled got close to the workpiece edges, it didn’t “tip”. I have a feather board system that’s adjustable but it doesn’t have to be that fancy. It just needs to be material of the same thickness of the material you are cutting that will support the sled and allow it to travel freely. You can see in the picture that the material I was working with was thicker than my featherboards. To make up the differance I just taped some cardboard in place. It worked a treat.
I think what @Orob was talking about was this:
That 2x4 support could casue some interference issues.
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I didn’t even see that. That’s definately in the way.
First off, check if it is tilting. If you have the ring at the correct height
you can cut pretty close to the sides before the sled starts tilting (within an
inch or two, with a lot of the sled hanging out in the air)
the ‘skirts’ (as they have been dubbed) are something that buts up against the
edge of your workpiece that provides a surface at the same height as your
workpiece to support the sled. This is needed FAR more at the bottom of the
workpiece than the sides (and not needed at the top). You will see posts saying
you need 9" of skirting all around, but manually move the sled around to see at
what point it tips and you will see that you need none at the top, a couple
inches at the sides, and 6-8" at the bottom (depending on your weights)
David Lang