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Z axis upgrade is almost ready for prime time!


#14

I’ll point out that the rigid uses a lead screw, but it uses a very sloppy
plastic nut, and instead of rails/bearings it’s using the body of the router and
the base, which were not designed for this.


#15

My ridged holder was really bad. I’d get complete moves where nothing was cut, then it would dive 1/2 inch or more and trash my bit. The Z axis is a little bit of a pain to build but, I can dive .1mm accurately. For me it was well worth the upgrade.


#16

You are correct, sir! It’s not in the slightest designed for this use. Thank you for the point of clarification, though. It could be confusing how one leadscrew is suitable for the job while another one is barely passable.

I remembered hearing some of your issues with the old base. Glad to see you’ve got a proper fix for that issue! I think this style of Z-Axis is going to be a great upgrade over the base. I hate my base, myself. It’s slow and very inaccurate. I have to clean up a lot of my dadoes with a chisel after cutting with the current setup. And that’s when it doesn’t bind on itself and pop out of the damn tab. I have the programs ready to go to cut my new Z-Axis, all I have to do is find the time to run them xD


#17

I think I’ve posted all of the files I created to build this thing. But if you need anything let me know.


#18

Something like this from openbuilds https://openbuildspartstore.com/c-beam-linear-actuator-bundle/ seems would work good for this with your wood parts. Short version has 150mm of travel. A little pricey though.

Also found something on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Actuator-Sfu1605-Stepper-Beauty-Star/dp/B01N3U8B6F/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1519217850&sr=8-11&keywords=linear+stepper


#19

So I am starting to have thoughts that I may need to cancel my z-axis upgrade and just build something like this for the long term.

Did you swap out the stepper because you needed more torque, or just because the software already has support for it?


Dewalt V-Groove Z-Axis
#20

The maslow hardware and software has no support for a stepper.


#21

Dude, that look cleaner than mine. I ordered the 100 mm and they sent me the 300, it is a skydive tower on my sled. but, it works. I do have play side to side on my rail. how did you get the bearings tight to the runner? And where are the files you cut? Mine barely fits in the ring.


#23

@bar

What kind of accuracy have you been having on your stock z axis? I think I’ll definitely want to build something more like this long term but I am curious as to other people’s experience with accuracy of the z axis using the rigid base.


#24

It’s good as long as you use the bungee but the magnesium parts and plastic on the screw wear fast!


#25

Here is the upgraded sled with pre-drilled holes for Kinematics (either kit). There is a small amount of slop designed in for 3/4 inch plywood, but i’d still say check all of my measurements before cutting. Let me know if you have any questions.

Sled with router both K mounts.ai (33.8 KB)
support shelf.ai (10.9 KB)
router holder.ai (8.0 KB)


#26

Has anyone had success with a spindle yet? Or experience with one? I’m wondering if a 500W spindle would have the necessary power for the Maslow?


#27

I haven’t received the maslow yet, but since everyone is mostly using 1/4" bits, then I think a 500W one is good. I was also thinking of just using something like the Dewalt DWP611 or Ridgid R2401 which are used often on hobby CNCs. It seems on first glance that such a big machine should have a big motor, but if it using the same bits, then I don’t think it does.


#28

@eppic I think I have the bulkiest router, and it has to go at one point. There are nice builds and suggestions for the Z move, like in this post.
z-axis
500W is exactly where I will start looking for a good air-cooled spindle.


#29

Well, I bit the bullet and ordered the z-guide from the beginning of this thread. I also ordered their 500w spindle with rpm controller and collets for 1/4” bits and a range of metric sizes as well…


#30

Ok, so I bought the new Z axis, fit it and, built a holder for the router. It had too much play for me. I reinstalled the router base, cutting off about .5 inch from the top. Cut down my holder to do the lifting and it is pinch fit at the top of the router. The bottom rides up and down in the base. Can use it for dust collection too!


#31

Nice build! After building it, what length would be the shortest to work? 100mm?


#32

If you use the base like me, a 200mm likely. I think @Onelonedork used a 100mm with his.


#33

Is that the same 200mm one from banggood? If so, do you find the rails on yours also have no slop and what part(s) did you use to adapt the z motor to the setup?


#34

I ordered the 200 but they sent a 300. But yes. They have very small “slop”, but too much for me, so I put back the base to hold it still. I used the stock z motor, with the stock z shaft adapter. I cut the small plywood square to use for the adapter guide. Then used a wood pin to connect the two adapters.