Sneak peek.
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wow that was fast!
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Awsome work, can’t wait to have one and test it
This is tangentially related, but would this board+Due combo run the current firmware (not just @ldocull’s GRBL-based firmware)? That is, are there any mods needed to the current firmware to support running on a Due?
TLE5206 support added, see above.
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The ‘cut-off’ of the 5V to the Due matches the through-hole PCBs’ I have 
Due arrived, capacitors, resistors and eeprom ordered (few days), spindle speed control on hand and tested. This is getting exiting!
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The schematics.pdf has a 10nF cap over the eeprom pin 1 (A0) an 8 (VCC). The (i guess fritzing) pic does not. Shal i add it to my circuit?
That’s just a bypass capacitor to protect the EEPROM power from noise. Always a good idea, but not required.
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Which timers are you specifically using? I’m trying to follow the code and timers are a weakness of mine. I’m struggling with figuring it out.
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Timer1 for Spindle, Timer5 for PID, Timers 3 & 4 are used by GRBL stepper.c, and Arduino uses Timers 0, 2, 6 for PWMs, delay functions, etc.
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I got these photos of the sample boards. They emailed me asking me to “Please check the direction of diodes carefully.” can anyone help me do that? I’m not much of an electronics person. I want to make sure they look good before they mass assemble them.
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All diodes and LEDs look properly placed.
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Is there a simple script to test the EPROM functionality?
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The board fails to connect with the GRBL firmware it’s the eprom isn’t connected.
is that what you are looking for?
Thank you
Thanks, Bee! I looked into the example files of the arduino with eprom read/write.
The ghetto version ready to create magic smoke 
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It would be really nice if the motor control chips could use one big heat sink instead of 2 or 3 separate ones. See my photoshopped example. Instead of paying a few dollars for custom heat sinks, One could use a 2" long piece of 1x1" aluminum tube which costs about 10 cents with some thermal grease.
Even better is if the third wire harness was out of the way off to the side and a big 5" long piece of aluminum could act as a heat sink and with a hole on each end could be screwed down to the maslow 2x4 wooden frame to hold the board in place. Just an idea for the genius circuit designers to play with?
Or perhaps move the motor chip so that it’s not right underneath the power socket so that you could use a U bent tube for heatsinking both chips. Someone did that with the old pcb layout, with brazed copper plates on a copper tube for watercooling, but with the motor chip right underneath the power socket, it’s probably impossible to do with this board.
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We have a limited run of 10 shields available for sale here:
They have also been added to the garden.
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Do you ship to remote countries like Bahrain?
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As long as there is a carrier that will deliver it, we will ship it.
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