3D Printed Parts (For those without a 3D Printer)

  1. Changed the slope of the default frame. I started with the @MakerMadeCNC jumpstart bundle and built my frame to their nicely detailed instructions. The known problems with the standard Z-Axis arrangement led me to the @Metalmaslow sled purchase. Somewhere on the Metalmaslow website or in the monstrous Metal Maslow thread I remember reading reducing the slope of the frame to 10 degrees. Rather than rebuild my frame from scratch, I removed the spoil board, added a 2x4 along the frame where top of the spoil board used to be, then reattached the spoil board. As a side note, this mod decreases the distance between the chains and the spoil board. Here’s a pic of the frame mod:

it’s probably better to adjust with the legs (cutting the front, extending the
rear) rather than tilting the spoilboard like this. The sprockets are still
mounted at the old angle on the top beam, so you are introducing a 5 degree
error between the angle of the chain and the angle of the sprocket, that’s at or
above the design limits for the sprocket and chain.

good to know that 10 degrees works better than the stock 15 degrees

  1. Somewhere in the readings mentioned in 1), I found a note that said raise the Ridgid router as high as possible in the clamp and I originally had the router engaged as far as possible in the clamp. Raising the router in the clamp causes the COG to be a bit lower when the bit is engaged in the material. I do still see the sled tip back when the router is raised to its safe traversal distance. Pic showing about 1/4" of router protruding below clamp:

low CG can work, high CG can work, what matters is that the chain mounts
(linkage) match the CG and that the chains are parallel to the workpiece)

David Lang

P.S. please chaing the subject or make a new thread when you change topics, I
had stopped reading this topic and almost missed this.