Using the R2200
I’m guessing it was under strain and the screws gave out that connected the motor to the top coupling.
Could this have something to do with that orange button?
Any suggestions on how to prevent this?
sounds like the router base was too tight and movement up and down too much for the motor. Did you have the clamp loose and the router lubed up as recommended?
@Orob can you expand upon those recommendations? I haven’t seen them.
Disclaimer: I have a ryobi router (the rigid’s plastic cousin that has the same lead screw and base design) so my experience is limited, but I did use it before I switched it for a different router for a few reasons, one if which was the bungee. I also read most of what is posted on this forum and while I don’t have a link off hand, if you search “router lube” or z axis, you will find an afternoon’s worth of reading. The thing to note is that the base was designed to clamp and hold the router and not move for typical router operation. The base is being repurposed as a glide sleeve when mounted on the sled, so it has to be ‘reconfigured’ to work appropriately. To summarize, the narrative goes something like:
- attach the router base to the sled
- inspect the inner sleeve where the router will be moving for any burrs or rough edges that may cause the router to bind.
- spray the outer router housing part that will be touching the base with a dry lube (like molydisufide) to ensure it will glide in the housing.
- When inserting the router, loosen the quick release clamp and unscrew it so when clamped (and it will have to be clamped so the ring won’t catch on the release lever) the router slides with minimal effort. Ensure that once down in the sleeve that the orange button engages to hold the router in place and the z axis screw will lift and lower the router when turned.
- strap a bungee from the sled, over the router to keep downward pressure on it making sure not to disrupt the ring bearing movement and not making it too tight it won’t move up or too loose that the screw movement is inconsistent.
I think that is it. If your z axis motor is fried or over torqued, the router movement is either too loose and binding by going crooked or too tight and binding. It is like goldilocks… needs to be just right.
Lube the base and loosen the quick-release nut.
Good stuff thank you! I’m ordering a file and some dry lube now.
My Z-Axis motor actually tore itself into 2 pieces. The top most piece where encoder cable attaches separated from the rest of the unit and was dangling by the cord.
be sure to zip tie the cable to the motor or something nearby for strain relief so if the cable gets caught, the zip tie will tear the cable rather than tweak the motor. Is it possible the cable was stressed funny and damaged the motor?
There must be small screws floating around inside the gear box, did they come loose, or strip out somehow?
Edit: wondering if it is salvageable by opening up the gearbox, and using loctite on the screws if it is otherwise serviceable as a spare.
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I’m checking the floor and shop vac with a magnet. So far no luck.
these are mass produced by machines, probabaly uses a pounded or twisted metal type connector and not screws. The force was too great on an unlubed 10 lb router and the metal came apart.
I think there are two screws holding it in place to the gearbox. From the what’s inside the gear box thread at the end.
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