Are these not soldered on? Can I just reattach it with some thermal paste?
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I fear not 
Even if you could solder it back, I fear that the chip over heated and went to Nirvana.
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So are these soldered on or not?
Yes, they are soldered.
And I can’t find any replacement shields in stock. Am I going to have to just completely scrap the entire thing?
You could buy a replacement chip from digikey or arrow and solder a new chip on.
Where are you located?
Maybe contact the 3 new suppliers directly.
I’m in north Louisiana. My soldering skills are extremely basic.
What 3 suppliers are those?
SMD parts are also not for me. I did order chips for the 3 shields i’ve burnt in the past, but never attempted to solder them. The TLE5206 shield in thruhole version is what i run now. Can take more abuse then the original shield, so i would name it the successor.
Is this the 1.4 shield sold by eastbaysource? Those are also sold out.
Yes, sold out.
Also Bee has stopped selling this one:
http://maslowcommunitygarden.org/Maslow-Brains-Motor-Shield-formerly-Blue-Smoke-Herder-Shield-.html
I’ve got some 1.2 boards available if you want a replacement.
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I’ve already ordered one, but thanks anyway.
LOL. It is frustrating, but I couldn’t help but laugh.
I could totally see this happening to me.
A little duct tape, and you’re back in the game.
I’ll try that tomorrow.
I assume this is a joke?
If the chip unsoldered it self, I would not trust it any more. It has likely shorted.
It did eventually occur to me that duct tape probably wouldn’t be best for this particular situation.
I managed to get a new TLE5206 shield ordered from eastbaysource, so I’ll hopefully get that Wednesday.
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Great to read, keep a good eye on your chains 
I’ve seen thelist of improvements to the new board, but how exactly does the new board improve on the actual performance of the machine?
Also, are there any changes or adjustments I need to make in Ground Control when I switch out the boards?
It should be plug and play. GC will report the board as 1.3 if all goes well and you do not need to do anything.
The board has 2-3 improvements:
- each motor has its own chip
- the chips can take more AMPs (careful if you use the ‘pull chain teight’ for motor distancemeasurement. If your frame or motor-mounts are weak, you will notice with this board, because for the first time you will see 30kg pulling for 3 sec.)
- not sure about your board, but with bees’ version you can bring more pins up, to use for example to control spindle speed or a relay to turn the router on/off.
I found a picture in the archives of a tested but not recommended solution against chain-wrap
We did not have the countdown then and i had to run.
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