Hello all.
Finally starting my canvas build as probably a month or more till my maslow arrives. What i decided on was 4 boxes that can bolt together. Then it came to me to make the boxes stackable for storage. So came up with 51x 27 next one 49x25 next 47x23 the the small at 45x21 using 1x4s for frame. Using 15/32 plywoid for tops. Glue and nail gun for assembly. Think it will save a lot of slace. With 2ft between all boxes outside deminsions would be 6ft by 10ft possible ok for horizontal sled with maslow 4.
Portable canvas frame requires .inimum of 1 sheet plywood. I goifed and had to use part of another. Requires qnty 6 1x4x8ft for frames.
But wilk require more with bolts, washers and nuts for expanding to 6ft x 10ft. I purchased 8 boards to be certain. Maybe this gives others ideas. Have fun guys and gals
I think stackable boxes to form a horizontal frame are a very nice idea! Do you think it would be possible to alter dimensions and perhaps number of boxes to be able to store the maslow inside the stacked boxes?
Perhaps with a faster way of coupling the boxes to make the frame?
Thanks for the idea, and have fun as well,
Yes dimensions can be changed. In fact i recomend it. I. Thought 1/4" clearance would be enough but with warped boards just purchase, it can be tight fit. Also i suffer fro tremors which makes sawing straight extremely difficult. So not best workmanship. Which is why i think madlow4 might help me. When i get my strength back to when i can get back outside, i will work on outside boards to attach to boxes with bolts and nuts. Maybe knobs for nuts would make assebly easier. I need tto sand and maybe paint or stain. I need to use outdoors. Project is still in work, but thought idea might help others with space limitation. Also considering maybe something like 2x8 ft for ends that can fut insidw each other for belt attachments. But not certain needed.
Tought i might add, largest and smallest form one level while mids make the other level. Whether numbering to identify is up to you. You could inctease size to 8x12 with boxes but would recommend at least a criss cross so no more than 2 ft between supports. But that is only my opinion. If thicker sacrifice board is used than might not be needed. I have purchased 0.5 and 0.75 thick waffle board for my use. Also wondering about how to make surw boards do not move. Purchased some super thin double back tape to try. But i am newbie to all of this. Also have thought about bracing from corners and sides.
Other opinions welcome.
Actually if someone really wanted to expand canvus area. They could easily do so. A 12ft x 12 ft frame could work on 2- 4x8 sheets of plywood at the same time. A workspace of 8x8 ft. I think easiest way to accomplish this is to do kind of like Lincoln logs. Where you notch half way thru boards so they interlock. The main stress is on outer frame and should not need to be bolted to corners. Would want to use plywood for feet to make boards same height as boxes. Make sure long vacuum hose. I think it might be neat to think of good way to attach powet cords to vacuum hose for less trip hazard.
Yes it is, 3d is great. Wish I could figure it out. Only change I was thinking of is moving 1x4" boards on outside to hold boxes together up to where top of board is level with top of plywood. But either will work. I was just thinking of support for any sacrifical boards. Bar has said when routing near edges of workspace, that you need boards to keep the sled level so not to tip. That is what i was considering.
My thought on ease of assembly. Need two bolt like connections at each junction for flex concerns in my opinion. Thoughs right now is one being a bolt and one being a pin. Pin could be heavy nail, that has point ground off. Either bolt or nut being a knob. So 8 pins and 8 knob bolts. Maybe with the t nuts with spikes into the wood and stay in place. Other ideas are welcome. This would require 8 bolt tightenings for assembly
Now that i see assembly as imagined I ca now see a weakness. Fix is not difficult however. 2x4 notched to fit in middle to make sure frame cannot flex. Boxes wont fles but extenders might. V cut on each end of a 2x4 to fit tight each diagonal. So almost X shaped. Should keep frame square. Your picture really helped me.
Spoil board needs to be removeable. Unless you only use same size boards. Just had idea i think you are saying. Instead of just 1x4 you place plywood of the length between boxes making it L shaped as the strengthener. Or as smaller boxes like something like 2 or 3 ft or maybe a ft?
the thing with spoilboard attachment is that you may hit any fasteners with the
router. so plastic/brass is preferred. you may be able to use double sided tape,
or if you have skirts around the workpiece (something for the sled to ride on
that’s the same height as the workpiece so the router doesn’t tip at the edges),
the spoilboard may sit in place against them without any fasteners.
