Fold Flat Chair

I got it cut.


Great chair, I would like to make a couple.

What thickness of material do I need please?

The design is not very thickness dependent, but I designed it for 3/4

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Thanks Bar.

Is there a forum for adjusting material thickness? I wanted to test cut your Maslow Logo but it was set for less than 3/4" as I found when I tried to cut it.

Within the Gcode file there isn’t an easy way to change the material thickness, but I always post the svg files and the CAD files for the project too so you can make gcode for different thicknesses of wood from those. And if you make a .nc file for a different thickness and want to be awesome, add it to the project for the next person!

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@Walt_Moorhouse has written a couple of useful scripts here, and one of them - ‘’ - limits the depth that the z axis will reach. I wonder if there might be a way to reduce the 3/4" depths with something similar.


What are the two holes for? How does it keep from folding shut when open? Thanks - love the design!

The pegs go into the holes to lock the chair open :grin:

Yes - I see that now - thank!

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I am very excited about this chair! How cool is it that you can take a 2D surface (plywood) and with a few cuts and some hinges, you have a 3D object – a chair.

However, there is a bug in the gcode. I used this gcode file, Folding Chair Version The gcode cuts part of the chair twice, cutting out the tabs which causes that part to get caught up in the whirling router bit. I made a diagram so you can see the area where the router is cutting twice.

I don’t know how to edit the gcode file to fix this. But you can visualize the gcode here to confirm what I am saying: I just cut and pasted the Folding Chair Version file into to the viewer which I where I got the picture from.

It is not a crisis to fix this, but it would be nice if people had a guaranteed to work file.

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I see in the picture with the “Lowe’s” logo that the top beam has been modified to handle the chain tension in a different way than in the standard instructions. Any chance we could get some better pictures of the top beam and the chain tensioner method? Or, is there already a better method than this? The standard-instructions tensioner doesn’t work that well.

The double cut is confirmed with Camotics. It’s 2 pieces and the programs I know following a contour will produce the same g-code. The reason why my liftdesk light (opendesk inspired) is on freeze for more than a year, is that it utilizes most of the sheet and parts are spaced the width of a bit. I refuse to cut most of the paths twice, but the solution to create g-code that just follows the most logical path is still out of reach.

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The potential issue with bungee cords is that they have the most force when not needed and are weak when you need them. 2 L water (~0.264172 gal), ~2kg (~4.40 pound) on a pulley system is all it takes to make a weight based tensioning. Keeping your slack chain in line with the sprockets and you can avoid chain guides. The back of the frame (if not used as storage) is good place for weights.
How not to do it or if you are on tight budget with most parts from the kit:

There are far more aesthetic concepts in the forum.

I have 2 maslows with a counter weight system in the middle, it’s awesome. Just using few ceiling pulleys, rope, 10 lb weights, don’t let rope touch the wood. More pictures here Improved chain tensioning for top beam configuration

Good point! I see the duplication in the gcode file too. I’ve created pull request #5 here: to propose removing the offending file

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How about using springs with some all thread to adjust the tension and do away with the bunjiis altogether, any thoughts

Why don’t you start a new topic to talk about your suggestion and show a diagram
of what you are proposing. I’m not sure I fully understand it.

for what it’s worth, the current ‘best chain tension system’ idea is to use
weights rather than any spring/elastic. The spring/elastic has the problem that
it produces the most force when the least is needed/wanted and the least force
when the most is needed.

David Lang

I got it cut as well…and am pretty happy with the results.
Though i am not entirely certain about the stability of the chair, perhaps i could add cross-braces at the bottom to make it more solid. ANy suggestions?

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The stain color with the black hinges looks awesome!

Do you mean that the chair can easily tip over on its side? You could square off the legs that sit on the ground like this:

If you are talking about adding braces (more material), then it wouldn’t necessarily be “fold flat” :wink:

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i am not concerned about it tipping over side to side - its pretty stable that way. However, once you sit on it, the back legs have a tendency to shift. If i put a removable cross brace at the bottom, it just makes the base more stable.

I am just speculating though :wink: it’s a pretty fun project to cut

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