Just setup my Maslow this weekend and came up with an implementation of the “counterweight from cross bar” configuration. As @dlang mentioned, this is nice because it keeps the chain horizontally across the top beam and inline with the motor sprocket.
I used one of the small bearing rollers and one of the plastic bushings to route the line first back towards the legs, and then down behind the machine where the counterweight hangs. The bushing worked fine for a number of cuts, but I’m planning to replace it with and eyelet and upgrade to a more durable line. Could also use a small pulley but it doesn’t seem like it is necessary from my initial testing.
@JakeS love the counter weight system! Im a fan myself. bungies look like they work too though. I couldnt figure out how to get the bungies to work or counterweight system to work behind the frame so i went to the front/side. It keeps the constant tension / weight on the backside of the motors. it also doesnt constrict running the sled/ router to the edges of the plywood (KEY!) also, if you loop the chain, you’ve got plenty of room for the counter weight to move.
luckily I was able to make it work with nothing else but what was in the box. well, i did cut a 1’ x 1’ x 1.5" piece of wood in half for each counter weight…not as cool as @Jon s adjustable water setup…so far shes working great.
Cheers, May the Maslow be with you all!
1’ of a 2x12 cut in half and screwed together weight is roughly 4.15 lbs per side. might need to add more to ballance out the weight of the sled/bricks/router …not sure yet
It seems to me that to make the backlash consistent you would want either the counterweight to be less than the least weight pulling on chain from sled, or more than the most weight on chain. Least weight on chain is when sled is all the way on far corner, most weight is probably on its own bottom corner. It was calculated on another thread that the least is 2.5lb, and most is I would say close to sled weight.
@jakes besides keeping chain in line with sprocket, I also like how this routes the weights to inside the main supports which keeps them more out of the way, versus having them at end of beam. I am going to try this way out.
Hi,
I used a counterweight system with a pair of 2.5kg dumbbells connected with static nylon string. Runs through two eyelets that are inline with the direction of pull with no string angle at the eyelets of greater than 90 degrees.
There are two eyelets either side of the electronics at the back to guide the weights and prevent catching. With 2.5kg the chain is always nicely tensioned and the weights behind the unit free up space either side for my tiny workshop!
I have all the electronics, a cyclonic vacuum system (bin and modified bucket!) And some storage behind the machine and have had no problems with skips, travel or interference and there is minimal stress on the cheap readily available screw in eyelets.
Just trying to see the route of the chain at the motor,
Do you have a guide sleeve over the bolt thread?
Could you take one more photo of the chain at the motor?
Hi @Dru, i have taken a few images of the chain sprocket, the chain termination ( with reinforcing cable tie!) And the bit of ali tube over the bolt thread on the frame (bars bolt together). Note that my machine has the top bar about 200mm lower due to my low roof height. The lower chain (that terminates) sits on the nut but doesn’t move / slide until the sled is at an extreme side point. Does this help? Let me know if you want any more pics!
Here’s my set up for the top mount. Replaced the elastic cord with strings and two liters. The string is the kind you put a level on for fencing. I’m going to add the the old nylon rollers to the outside to prevent rubbing. Finished my frame about the same time the standard frame officially changed, so I went ahead and Frankensteined it into a top mount.
That’s a great looking Malsow! Just a thought - I was under the impression that the main advantage for putting the chains on top with the bottom feed was to free the space on the side that the vertical chains were using up. With your counter weight system, you’re using the exact same space so wouldn’t it be easier to just use the before standard of putting the chains vertically on the side with the top chain configuration? With that setup, the elastics mixed with gravity were enough.
I like your modifications to the stock frame. I may look at doing something like that as a temporary measure until I fully rebuild my frame. But I saw a problem in the last picture you posted that suggests you need to recalibrate… the spear you intended to cut out came out looking like a gator head… go noles!
