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Looking For Fully Detailed maunal calibration for generation 1 GC 1.25

Hello Team,

I am working some intricate, “Drill/Pocket” style projects,
Currently i am suffering from the oblong circle issue.
If i can get a detailed manual setup, i believe I’ll be able to
find my soloution.

My maslow has been running flawlessy up to this point.

have a great day Team!
Keep up the sawdust! :slight_smile:

when you say ‘gen 1’ maslow, are you still using the big angle brackets to hold
the chains, or have you gone to a triangulation kit?

going to a triangulation kit will be the biggest thing you can do to improve
accuracy, there are a lot of things that we account for in the triangulation
code that we have never bothered to try to backport into the quadralteral
kinematics

David Lang

I’m still using the large brackets and the template square shaped sled. :slight_smile:

Im not looking to upgrade my current rig setup, I feel tweaking with the ones a d zeros is a better option!

Thanks for the response!

in theory you are right that it’s easier to update software than hardware, in
practice, we could not figure out how to make things more accurate in software
for those original brackets.

it turned out to be insanely sensitive to even small errors in the measurements,
and the calculations do not account for the difference between the length of the
chain and the effective length of the chain taking into account that it will sag
a bit (especially under low tension)

all I can say is try to be extremely careful in your measurements. the chain
attachment points need to be the point where the chains pivot, not the end of
the chain, and since that eats up chain length, you need to move the chain an
extra link or two so that the distance between the top center of the sprocket
and the pivot point on the sled is what the machine thinks it is (anything
beyond that pivot point does not count)

also, make sure that you don’t put the retaining pin through the chain between
the rollers on the very last link (where there is no pin through the chain
hole), we have seen chains come apart letting the sled swing freely in such
cases. either put the pin through that last hole, or put it through the middle
of the next link.

the shape of your sled doesn’t matter, round, square, octogon, doesn’t matter.

If you want, you can cut your own links to make a triangulation linkage kit, it
takes a little sideways thinking (you don’t just lay out all the parts and let
the machine cut them, you only cut them in the exact center of the machine and
you move the material sideways to cut the different parts), but even with an
inaccurate machine, you can cut the triangulation parts to make it accurate.

David Lang

Good evening Mr. David,

Thank you for your time!
This is all wonderful news, the detail i was overlooking is as follows:

“all I can say is try to be extremely careful in your measurements. the chain
attachment points need to be the point where the chains pivot, not the end of
the chain, and since that eats up chain length, you need to move the chain an
extra link or two so that the distance between the top center of the sprocket
and the pivot point on the sled is what the machine thinks it is (anything
beyond that pivot point does not count)”

Thank you so much for pointing out this little detail. I follow up on this and get back to you.

Fantastci!
" GO, GO, GO…STOP!!!"
have a great day.

Nigel M