Mostly just curious. Not completely sure what issues would present themselves as it gets smaller.
Considering building a tiny frame I can fit in my car to take around with the Maslow.
Mostly just curious. Not completely sure what issues would present themselves as it gets smaller.
Considering building a tiny frame I can fit in my car to take around with the Maslow.
Carson Barry wrote:
Mostly just curious. Not completely sure what issues would present themselves as it gets smaller.
Considering building a tiny frame I can fit in my car to take around with the Maslow.
the minimum frame size allowed is 400mm square, which gives you pretty much no
usable space
I have built, but not tested a ~20" square frame that I hope to be able to clamp
down to a table.
David Lang
Based on looking at http://lang.hm/maslow/maslow4_frame.html, it appears that
For a 12" (~305mm) workpiece, a 26" (~660mm) square frame is the smallest that gives you the full workpiece without potential issues.
For a 24" workpiece, a 52" frame.
The 20" frame dlang described would only have 9-10" of good work area.
I think I’m going to take a page out of the hourglass frame’s book and make a 52" frame in two pieces, but attach them with hinges and make it fold like a briefcase.
Carson Barry wrote:
The 20" frame dlang described would only have 9-10" of good work area.
less than that, the sled is 16" in diameter, so you can’t get closer than 8"
from the edge, so a 20" frame only gives you a 4" work area
David Lang
52" folding frame rough design
Didn’t bother rendering the braces for this, though I can tell I’ll have to accommodate the flip out legs on the back side on bottom.
Would also likely shorten the support pieces on the top and bottom of the frame so that I could add feet to the corners on the bottom and prevent it only being supported across the middle.
There would be lots of 1/2" bolts involved in this, as hinges for the legs and support pieces, as pins for the legs, and as the fasteners that lock the two sides together between the touching center supports behind the mounting board and connecting the support pieces to the frame. With a socket and a power drill it would assemble and dissemble rather quickly.
1/2" might be overkill, but I’m here for it.
I don’t use sketchup super often, generally in Ps/Ai or Unreal, so this is super sloppy, but here’s the file if people are curious about any of it:
Better mock up in FreeCAD. Also my first time using FreeCAD.
Overall dimensions of frame increased to 53.5" to keep the anchors 52" apart and give a fully-safe 24" working area.
As an aside, well done. I have tried many times to start using freecad, but I get frustrated and go back to onshape or fusion.
I would consider making the spoilboard area a bit bigger (possibly repositioning the braces) so that you can attach skirting around the workpiece to support the sled at the edges
also, if you are bolting them together in the middle, I don’t know that you need to boards on the top and bottom (try without it and see how much flex there is)
Luckily the spoil board and supports are things that could be adjusted without changing any of the rest of the design.
Having those supports further out would also make it easier to get at the central bolts.
I will say that this definitely took me longer than I would have liked. I did the whole thing and then had to redo it twice as I learned how to use the Assembly 4 extension so I could add hinges and keep things relative to each other as I adjusted those hinges to check clearances.
Adding parts to the assembly was rather tedious, which is why I skipped the back braces for now. I’m sure if someone who knows the program well opened my file they would either sigh or cry.
I’d recommend going with Alibre - I’ve found its workflow better than OnShape
Expanded the mounting surface to a 3’x3’ area and added the missing parts to the assembly.
Also added a reference for the working area and sled (green square, yellow circle).
I need to definitely spend some more time with FreeCAD’s diagramming tools, but here’s at least the dimensions of the 2x4’s and their holes, even if it’s not arranged in an ideal manner.
re: 6.69 and 3.31:
11/16 and 5/16 gave perfect alignment, 5/8 and 3/8 should be close enough
re: 1.1 and 0.65
these values give the 55 degree angle for the legs, which doesn’t need to be exact. 1 1/8" and 5/8" are close enough.
The braces are the same as the standard maslow frame, which is also why the holes for the anchor bolts aren’t modeled. (the anchor bolts are also why it will not fold perfectly flat unless you offset the hinges by their thickness)
Could skip the hinges entirely and just let it live as two pieces when not assembled. I didn’t explicitly place hollows for those to live in for this general of a design. Would probably be good to have those just above/below the braces.
Mounting board is 2 panels, 18"x36", thickness is whatever you want.