Maslow precision

Im sure this has been asked hundreds of times but it seems like people use this machine for cutting wood which seems like if your off a lip might not be a bid deal (depending on project )
I’m just curious on the precision people are getting with the Maslow , i want to do acrylic work , and need my cuts to be pretty precise because a 4x8 sheet of acrylic is like 3 times the cost of plywood osb, mdf , particle board , it’s like $250 for a 1/4” sheet of acrylic i can afford to be wasteful , I’d like some community input ! Thanks guys I’m super excited to get thing project going the Maslow is exactly what i was looking for !

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It is for some of us. I want to be within 1mm at the edges and the corners. We are not quite there yet.
In the centre I have cut within a 1/10 of a mm. That has impressed me.
Edit: I forgot my manners, sorry.
Welcome!

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Thanks for the welcome! So how much are you off in the corners ? And what kind of cuts are off in the corners ? Are straight lines off in the corners ? Or is it just curved lines ?

Sorry I’m a bit short to day. I think 4mm in dimesion? Not sure.
A good resource:

Edit: I have a few minutes to make this longer :slight_smile:
From my unqualified opinion, we are at a stage we have identified all main variables and all that’s needed is comparable tests to find out how to tweak the values.

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Oh sweet ! That’s pretty awesome ! So it sounds like people are running weighted sleds anymore, because they added the sag calibration procedure, this is good to know ! I think by the time i get one they’ll have figured this all out, that’s it I’m buying one. !

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we have not done any experimentation with changing the weight and angle since
the sag compensation was added.

we have a setup that ‘works’ but we don’t have any idea if it’s anywhere close
to ideal. Some other areas have shown us to be very near the minimums, but we
don’t have good info on tilt/weight yet

This is still accurate as I am curious about the angle and sled weight and may experiment.

I can tell you that 20 degrees system tilt and 10 degrees system tilt did not work with my system at the time I tried them, though I did not change the sled weight at the different angles. I suspect changing the sled weight and the angle would likely be more of a story about friction. If you can get friction low enough, you should be able to make it work.

tilting back further increases friction.
tilting forward decreases the force available to plunge the bit into the wood.

personally, I suspect that tilting forward a bit, but making sure that the bits
are center-cutting to plunge better could work, but you can’t go too far.

I knew people had tried 5 and 20 degrees, I wasn’t aware of people trying 10
degrees.

David Lang