^^ awesome
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I don’t think that it’s going to work as easily as you think, I think that you
would need a lot of switches (when the sled bumps the bumper a couple feet away
from your switch, it will take a lot of movement of the bumper before the switch
will detect it)
But working hardware trumps theory, so I’m interested in seeing someone trying
it.
My frustration with z-axis is getting serious. Has anyone compared Metal Maslow sled versus Meticulous Z-axis modification? Are there any significant precision or durability differences in how they address the z-axis? Or is this more of a “buy” versus “build” decision?
from what I’ve seen of the metal maslow sled, the Z axis is not as rigid as the
meticulous Z axis, which means you can’t cut as deep. if you stick with a /14"
bit and 1/8" or less cut depth, it’s a build vs buy thing.
David Lang
I’ve built both Meticulous Z and I own the MetalMaslow sled. Honestly, I think Meticulous Z is the better option because of it’s safer COG adjustments (If using the Metal Ring kit). The MetalMaslow sled is very well thought out, but if using the Ridgid router, the COG is a pain in the ass. You have to really jack that linkage kit up on tall spacers, or reconfigure your frame. Both of which to me, was more than I wanted to do. So I opted for the spacers under the linkage arms, and it’s still not 100% right. It will still tip back on deeper plunges. No matter where on the workspace it is.
Speed wise? Man that thing ROCKS. The Z movement is so fluid and quick as compared to the router base. And the sled is smaller, giving you more workspace, without as much fear of tipping off the sides. I’ve cut as close as 4" from the top bottom and sides with it…
But, I’m continuing my Meticulous Z set up to use instead. So I don’t have to rebuild my top beam just to get my COG back to what the original maslow setup was.
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you are misunderstanding things.
the CoG of the sled is what it is, moving the linkage doesn’t change it.
raising the linkage above the CoG of the sled is going to cause it to be more
tippy at the edge and have more friction along the top where the tension is
higher (because the tension is pulling it towards the workpiece)
you first should set the linkage to the proper height for the CoG of the sled,
then make the frame work for that height (either by moving the top beam, or by
adding spacers behind the workpiece to move the workpiece out to match the top
beam)
David Lang
Oh I see what you’re saying. Maybe CoG isn’t the term I’m looking for when I describe my issue with the MetalMaslow sled.
I was having great success with the original sled, no tipping, etc. That’s why I said the Meticulous Z is what I’m leaning more towards, because it fit my frame build like the original sled did. I built my frame for the original sled. I’m trying not to modify that since it’s working so well.
So what’s the best formula (please go easy on me, I’m no math wiz) to calculate the CoG? Holding the sled by the chains and seeing which way it tips? Then what? If it tips to the back, what do you change? The linkage? Or the top beam?
EDIT: I do know that with the ring kit, and original sled, I had it adjusted where if there was 2" gap between the chain and the work piece at the top, I had 2" gap between the chains and the work piece at the sled. And it moved like a hot knife going through butter. lmao
So what’s the best formula (please go easy on me, I’m no math wiz) to
calculate the CoG? Holding the sled by the chains and seeing which way it
tips? Then what? If it tips to the back, what do you change? The linkage? Or
the top beam?
if it tips, adjust the height of the linkage until it doesn’t, then adjust the
frame so that the chains are parallel to the workpiece
EDIT: I do know that with the ring kit, and original sled, I had it adjusted
where if there was 2" gap between the chain and the work piece at the top, I
had 2" gap between the chains and the work piece at the sled. And it moved
like a hot knife going through butter. lmao
the metalmaslow sled has a lower CG than the stock sled, the meticulous sled has
a higher CG than stock.
with the metalmaslow sled, the CG is going to vary depending on how you mount
the router (if you mount it with the router as high as possible in the mount,
the CG is lower as the movin part of the mount is closer to the sled in normal
operation)
David Lang
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Ok CoG is definitely not what I’m referring to, but thank you for clearing it up. I’m actually kinda worried about lifting the linkage up any further.
Don’t get me wrong, it cuts awesome! It has it’s quirks, but I just felt the larger base (Stock Sled, Meticulous Z sled) would make for a less tippy experience.
pulling above the CoG makes it more tippy, so lower the linkage until it’s
balanced and then add a spacer behind your workpiece to move it out until the
chains are parallel to the workpiece will result in the least amount of
tippyness.
David Lang
Can you please explain this? The linkage should be in line with the COG of the sled, or lower than?
the linkage height should match the CoG height of the sled with the router at
the height it would be when cutting (which does vary between being clear of the
wood and cutting all the way through the wood, which also varies based on the
length of the bit)
David Lang
This should be as simple as hanging the sled by the linkage arm and making sure it is vertical?
yes, when I did it with a ring kit, I took a chunk of angle metal, clamped it to
a table and then balanced the top L bracket on the edge of the angle metal, then
moved the ring to that point. Saves a lot of trial and error.
David Lang
Any off chance you have a picture? I follow you but others might not. Seems like a ‘kiss’ methodology.
here is a picture of the simple weights (along with a clothsline pulley from home depot instead of the tiny sprocket and hook)
This is using bright green paracord
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Just want to add a quick Thank You to everyone here! I learned a ton reading this thread and others. We are an art house so we plan to do plenty of interesting projects once I get my head wrapped around the technology a little better (mostly .040 Sheet Aluminum). Having the collective brainiacs here as a resource is comforting. I will start my own thread and document everything as I go, ordering our Maslow in a week or so.
Jason
Jason
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Has anyone thought of adding X and Y stops?
Does anyone have any suggestions for touch plate solutions for the Z axis?
maslow already supports z axis touch plate. make sure you buy a kit/board that has aux 4 connectors and connect positive to plate and negative to router bit and when they touch it zeros out. due to the hanging deisgn, x & y stops cannot really be implemented like they are on a standard gantry router.
Thanks Kahn, I know there is touchplate support but I haven’t been able to figure out what bits and bobs I need to add support to my rig. BTW; I’m loving the z axis kit I got from you. 