“If the chain holes were furthest from the router bit.” As murphy’s law dictates, the chain holes are closest to the router bit which makes attaching the chain more difficult. You should point that out in your instructions. Would save a slight amount of grief and loctight.
PS I’m currently set for Triangular which I believe is the correct choice according to the configuration images. Quadrilateral seem to be if the mounting points were stationary. Or am I wrong?
Anyone figure out how to mount the Arduino in the aluminum box it shipped in?
If I mount it to the wood frame instead, will it overheat?
Also, my kit only came with 2 heatsinks, is it safe to run the z-axis motor without a heatsink on the chip?
send us an email and we can send you a heat sink. The board will not overheat anyways. The board also does not really “mount” into the aluminum tube. it just sits inside. make sure you have a piece of foam or wood or cardboard, non conductive stuff underneat the board so it does not touch the aluminum.
Chris sorry about the instructions (behind on that!) and yes triangular is correct.
Just wanted to make sure before i buy wood for frame that the
screws with the kit are for default frame?
@Chris_Utt what is this Triangular Quadrilateral you guys taking about?
Anybody who has setup the machine can please post pictures of
different parts of the assembled machine, it will be helpful
One more question. from metal maslow web site
"Please note we recommend making the machine one foot taller and also making the top motor mounting bar 12’ long instead of 10 ’ long. "
The extra one foot is added to top i.e., between top of plywood and top beam
or
at the bottom i.e below the play wood
thanks
Triangulation and quadrilateral are used when identifying how the chains connect to the sled. Quadrilateral seems to be what was used on the original kits when the brackets were fixed to the sled. The linkage kits and the circle bracket use triangulation
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I just drilled 4 more holes in the aluminum piece to mount the arduino.
Has anyone found good instructions for the pulleys that come with the metal maslow. I looked through the community garden but didn’t find anything that looked like it.
Dumguy, I used the screws included to make the frame. Buy some wood glue while you are buying the 2x4’s.
Edit:
I guessed at how to set it up but the front pulley is getting pushed up and the rope is binding on it.
It looks like the top pulley needs to be mounted a little higher. I got it working and walked through the full calibration.
I tested the z axis calibration by zeroing it and then telling maslow to raise it 33mm. I then measured and adjusted until I was at 33 mm above the board. I ended up with a z-axis pitch of 24. The setting of 8 suggest below was way off.
I went to cut my first piece but when I hit a knot the bit broke. I’m buying a new bit now and I’ll try again in a couple days.
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I’m interested in the metal Maslow!
woodcraftark@gmail.com
@kdw when I asked the z axis to index by 0.1 inches, it moved over an inch, ultimately I did something similar to you. I bumped it a couple numbers and measured the input distance with the output (actual) and used some cross multiplication of the ratio to end up at 24 corroborating your value. It would have been a hell of a lot nicer if we were provided the PPR and gear ratio so we could properly enter the correct settings into Ground Control.
@Nate_Hall Be prepared for some very incomplete instructions and selective responses for support.
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be aware that just about all support here is from volunteers, other Maslow
users. we reply when we have time and know the answer.
The non-standard parts and non-standard settings in the kit were tough to figure out and I don’t think I have it all correct. My cuts up to this point on the metal maslow are pretty good.
I think the non-standard parts are all upgrades based on the forum threads that I found that seem to have inspired the changes in this kit.
This kit is pretty new so hopefully the instructions will improve with time. I think the biggest necessities right now is the correct settings for ground control and a parts list.
A safety tip that I think should be said often, set your router to its lowest speed to avoid fire.
8 is correct for the people with the original maslow motors and the metal z-axis upgrade kit. if you have a full metal maslow, your numbers may be different, depending on the motor specs.
I see, if you have the Makita z-axis, the pitch is 24. If you have the Ridgid z-axis it is 8. Makes sense.
How is the side-to-side play in the Ridgid z-axis Jatt?
For the Makita z-axis it moves side-to-side quite a bit.
If you have a lot of side-to side movement, you should check your eccentric wheel spacers. There is a youtube video from openbuilds here that shows you how to do this. You will need to disassemble your c-beam, making sure to not lose any of the washers.
It would help others (including me) if you take a lot of detail pictures of your build. Especially the stuff you had to figure out.
I think I’ve finally figured out what all these parts are for except for one.
Any help from the community on telling me what this is for?
That’s just an edge guide. Probably came with your router. Not needed.
Thank you!
I just ordered one of these z-axis upgrade kits. The metal sled, carriage etc. He said it was shipping out this Thursday. Yay! What’s the calibration like? I’ll be using the original maslow motor. What can I expect? A full recalibration? What is the new radius in GC with the linkage kit? What is the pitch with the Ridgid R22002 router setup? I literally can’t find any info on this stuff and I’m not a math wiz by any means. Could someone give me a starting point that has converted to this setup please? I just don’t want to be down longer than I have to be as I’ve got a ton of projects on my plate right now. Thanks in advance.