I’ve also experienced the CW/CCW bug.
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MakerMade sells a ring kit that’s identical to Bar’s original kits and likely from the same supplier. They just changed the color. The other two kits I’ve evaluated the metal is not the same quality. Likely cheap chinese made components. If you contact MakerMade and just need the ring and L brackets replaced they might be able to help, otherwise the whole kit is $75. They have been pretty good at helping all of Bar’s customers with older kits and warranty service.
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I think you need the ring to fail in this circumstance, otherwise the frame or motors are vulnerable.
Chain kick is usually a symptom of the chain being at a different angle than the sprocket is on or the sprocket slipping under tension. Is the left sprocket set screw properly seated on the drive shaft’s flat section?
Sprocket slip would explain the cut in your test circle, the chain jump during calibration, and (if there is a way for the slack end to bind up) Enough y-axis creep to drive the sled into the beam.
Just a thought.
We also do so, but most of our kit parts are made here in USA.
Obviously you have not evaluated one of our kits. We make our rings in USA from high carbon steel as well as the brackets and carriages.
We have sold hundreds of kits without problems and also shield replacements, and for those few that have experienced an issue, we have a written 6 months warranty in all our parts.
We not only made our kits here, but we mail them from USA not china like others.
Gab
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I don’t think we want to make this a discussion on who makes better quality rings. For the function of this tool just about any grade of steel will work.
I bought from Eastbay, they are standing by their product and I appreciate that. I am sure that others stand behind their products as well and make fine products.
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I’m experiencing this issue for the first time when I tried to re-calibrate my setup. What did you do to work around this bug? I’ll probably uninstall all the software and re-install.
My #1 suggestion for people doing calibration is to really focus on and read the instructions. It’s easy to get tripped up. I made a wiki post (can’t readily link it from my phone) that tries to guide people through the process and point out areas where people make mistakes.
My #2 suggestion is to measure twice and be 100% confident you are entering the measurements correctly, particularly with units (i.e., don’t enter inches for mm or vs. versa).
I say these things because maslow has a built in mechanism to prevent the sled from moving off the workpiece (like what happened) but that mechanism requires a machine that is at least close to being calibrated. One bad measurement can throw the whole thing out of whack and nothing good can come of it.
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twostar, which issue are you experiencing? The throwing of the chain when you try to calibrate? Please see this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eVWlvCvXMD8
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@blazman No, I was having the issue with the motor moving CW when clicking the CCW button. I removed all the software and reinstalled it and hadn’t had an issue since. Before all this I was running just fine and only re-calibrated to try and get my accuracy a little tighter.
Ah. I think that happens when you go back a step and then forward a step and back a step. But maybe not.