Need help with calibration

[hyderja]

After I get my chain measurement and choose where my chain go under at the bottom to my sled and click it looks good and give my rough rotation radius estimate. Is states “If your left chain is still attached to the right motor from the length measurement motor to motor, remove it from the RIGHT motor without changing the position it has on the left motor”…Do I click extend left chain?.. because when I do the sprocket is going CW and just runs the chain off the sprocket… What I am doing wrong? It seem like the motor should be reeling the chain back in from the right side by going CCW. I am also using a 12 foot top beam is there a setting I should be changing somewhere?

[hyderja]

Says take the chains off in one step put them at 12 o’clock… nest step do not take the chain off of the left sprocket…WHAT IS THE CORRECT WAY TO DO THE CALIBRATION???

[madgrizzle]

Are you running the slack part of the chain along the top beam? That’s how most designs are done these days. Original design had the slack part of the chains running vertical down the side. If running along top, you have to select Chain Off Bottom… I suggest following makermade’s instructions on calibration. It applies to maslow no matter where you bought it from

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.makermadecnc.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/06/1.5CalibratingYourMaslow-3.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwjNivWR88_pAhWRl-AKHf8qB10QFjAEegQIARAC&usg=AOvVaw0HsGlpcqdvCoq94t5x_rQ2

Or you can follow the wiki

How To: Get Calibrated!

Note: The intent of this thread is to help people get their machines calibrated and answer “frequency asked questions” of the process. Do this First: Go to Settings->Advanced Settings and set the Extend Chain Distance based upon the following: If using a 10-foot top beam, set distance to 1651 mm If using a 12-foot top beam, set distance to 2032 mm The key to the setting is to make it a multiple of 63.5 mm and long enough so you can attach your chains to the sled when the time comes. Calibra…

[hyderja]

Alright I thought I had it calibrated correctly but my first trial cut is not quite level. What could be the cause and how can I correct it?

[kayaker37]

Looks like you may have jumped a sprocket tooth. Do you mark the chain and sprocket in ground control as is recommended in web control?

[madgrizzle]

Chain skip is a definite possibility.

How To: Manually Reset Chains, the Easy Way

Every now and then you may find that you need to readjust the chains back to a known position. This could occur if you power/connection issue and the controller lost it’s position, had a chain skip, took apart something for some reason, etc… Fortunately, there’s a way to reset the chains without a lot of work. During calibration, after you set the sprockets vertical, you extend the chains out to reconnect to the sled. If your “Extend Chain Distance” is a multiple of a full revolution of the s…

Also, it often helps to run the calibration multiple times (2… sometimes 3 times) as each time it improves the accuracy of the machine, but the improvement diminishes with each calibration as it gets closer and closer to the optimum solution.

[hyderja]

Thank you so much. I am finally using a bit. Just trying to figure out why maker cam is not recongnizing some lines to produce a gcode. Notice some of the lines on the forg are nort being calculated and the whole image is selected.