I canât the way I built this model (and itâs a pain to do as you have to precisely position each hole, good for engineering drawings, massive overkill for woodworking)
it lists export options for sheets as
dxf
dwg
dwt
pdf
for dxf/dwg it gives the option to export as text or explode into polylines
and there is a âexport all sheetsâ or âonly current sheetâ, which apparently isnât working correctly
but if itâs all individual lines, like the svf/pdf, that doesnât help anyway
Maybe I can do all in inkscape. I can make the fasteners in visio, save as svg, and import into inkscape and just copy and paste. Since there are only a few orientations it might not be that difficult.
Importing the pdf into inkscape and then taking my fastener drawings from visio and importing it worked well. Iâll work on it some tomorrow.
most of those drawings were done at 1:20 scale, but the last few were at 1:25 scale
Here is the 2D Cad of my proposed design in scale. The top beam can be Unistrut or 2x4. As this is only 2 2x4 itâs rear depth is ~ 7 inches with 1 folding leg. The top beam will come forward the distance of a 2x4 plus the motors I would say ~ 5.5 inches. Itâs rigidity comes from 4 tie points of the 3/4 plywood frame on the front, tide to the 2 parallel vertical 2x4âs, that are tied by a diagonal 2x4 beam.
Bumble bees arenât supposed to be able to fly eitherâŚ
Thank you
thinking about the panel saw, it doesnât need to have rollers, something that just hooks over the top beam would work. Iâll do up a CAD of it after I finish doing the assembly step diagrams
Iâm planning to use ours as a 2-axis panel saw. Fix the horizontal travel and you cut from top to bottom. Fix the vertical and you cut from side to side.
I love the cutout layer in the carriage shaped like the saw baseplate so you always position it the same way. Once I get my Maslow up, Iâm gonna cut one of those. Thanks for posting!
What size (length) fasteners should I be trying to model? I assume everything will be screws for the most part.
Iâve had an idea for a similar unistrut panel saw for some time. I was thinking of fabricating glides like these instead of using bearings. The unistrut for the vertical rails would be rotated 90 degrees so that the open part of the channels are facing each other.
Iâm thinking 2.5" screws (3" screws would have a tendency to poke through if you
slightly overdrive them, and while they would be better if every one was driven
in at a slight angle to avoid this, people arenât going to do this.
and in any case, the glue should be the main part of the strength, so 2-4 2.5"
screws per 3.5x3.5 overlap should be good.
Our Unistrut is set back behind the plane of the workpiece so that if/when
the sled overruns the end of the work area, hopefully the router bit wonât
try to take a bite out of the Unistrut.
Throwing in my modified frame design.
I extended the 2X4âs that hold the waste board, made some brackets out of flat bar that hold a 10â section of 1" square tubing that I mounted the motors on. Seems to work pretty well, doesnât change the original design much, and uses common materials.
Would it be safe to say that someone could take their stock final frame and achieve the same accuracy improvement that this frame is thought to provide by basically adding a new 2x4 to the side of each existing legs and building the top beam off that? I donât think the back leg on the stock frame reaches as high as what is shown in the new design, but is that critical?
(This doesnât address things like eliminating the bottom beam and the wings for the stretchy string and any other stiffeners⌠just talking about the top beam)
I am still advocating for this type of design as the stock:
It would require adding some bolts to the kit, but it is dead simple to put together and eliminates the need for the temporary frame entirely
The big drawback Iâm seeing now when I look at the cut list is that you end up with some extra length on two of the 2x4s. Overall it takes six 10â 2x4s and removes an entire sheet of plywood from the BOM
Found this:
Actually thatâs not true because you still need to make the sled 
could the sled just be cut from the center of the âstructureâ board?..should still be fine with a hole in the middle.
What about not going with all 10â lengths? Four 10s and two 8s?
I can get as short as 93" (stud length) at my local stores, and as long as 16â. There may be ways to pick and choose appropriate lengths that are not 10 footers.
Many places also sell partial sheets of plywood, but one could always use a full sheet for calibration and test piloting the machine
@apprenticeb Great point, we can at the very least suggest that as an option. The plywood really isnt structural
@akamcfly Iâm embarrassed I didnât think of that. 8â is a common size around here too. That sounds like a good solution
