Ok so add a center beam vertically on the back of the wall module and and a member projecting forward to the beam. In this shown configuration it will want to slowly flap like a bird.
This is another topic David And I spoke about last night. The difference in this design and 80/60 is Iām working with that negative space allowing me to only worry about 3/4 inch (29mmm) on a fixed plane so I wonāt need to move the motors out once I choose a fixed distance. This design is working with a possible 3/4 base sheet, then a waste board, undetermined thickness then a work piece possibly 3/4 or grater, if you eliminate the waste board that is still 2.28 inches or 58mm add a waste board you can be very close to over 3 inches in material. That is a lot of movement and possibly a lot of adjustment for just standard work. Then consider that we are talking thicker parts for advanced users and the distance out that goes. This is why it needs to diverge to Unistrut at that point.
This is the Elephant in the room.
The top area is a problem in all of the designs including mine until tested and proven @bar style.
Oh I agree on this pointā¦ I still havenāt gone through the instructions with complete clarity. @dlang has come up with a very clever way of doing this that eliminates measurements after you cut the piece and uses almost every bit of wood efficiently. I like the beauty in it, but its not as intuitive to construct something this way as it would be to just say āgo build a wall and attach legs to itā.
This is why I asked in the āIāve got yet another issueā thread for someone who is about to start building their frame to look at the design and provide constructive criticism.
I agree with this sentiment, and I believe many will see the new revision and make some changes on their terms. I expect I will be doing this as I have strengths and weakness in my own skill set and tool supply. These strengths and weakness are not the same as others who will be building a Maslow frame. Iām 100% fine with that.
What I see is a small group putting out an extraordinary amount and level of design, planning and testing in a short time. That being said, this is only the second official revision of this machine. There will be a third, fourth, fifth, etc. Some details will be in the official frame this time and some will not. Some of the āwinningā details may not stand the test of time. Some of what doesnāt make it into rev. 2 may well be a better way after all.
There will be changes coming that weāre not even aware of or expecting. I expect rev 3 to be better than rev 2 and we havenāt even thought of a clever code name for rev 3 yet. I expect rev3 will be simplified from rev 2 because this is everyoneās first crack at improving the frame and we all have ideas we want to try. Iād rather throw EVERYTHING at rev2 and see what sticks. Let it fly! Make it UGLY. Accept that it wonāt be perfect. Accept that will be better.
Rev 3, or Operation Kung-fu Lemurā¢ will be even better.
Thanks @madgrizzle Iāve looked over that and the rest of this thread. I can compile it on my own, I was hoping for a single PDF for ease of download / printing.
There seems to be a lot of concern for how complex this frame has become. From my perspective its not that difficult to build. The instructions may be hard to follow but the diagrams are very helpful. Even more so when they are color coded. I wouldnāt underestimate the abilities of the end users. I would assume that anyone that is buying a maslow kit is a bit of a tinkerer.
I think this is the key; itās not hard to build just difficult to follow the instructions. I contemplated taking the diagrams into sketchup and doing something like I did in post 798. Itās a lot of work to do that though.
That is because he is experienced and does not need step-by-step instructions.
However, most maslow builders are not experienced, they canāt look at a drawing or 3d model and figure out how the parts should be attached, they need step-by-step instructions. Thatās what weāre trying to create.
no, most people doing this have never seen a wall without sheetrock in person
This we agree on, the difference is in the expectation of what the beginner has for skills.
I agree with this, but before I do the work of duplicating the full set of instructions with minor variations, I want us to agree on what the result is. Itās enough work to create and recreate the images and text for one version. If I had to try and keep multiple versions in sync as we go through these changes, I would give up.
[quote=āBee, post:843, topic:2025, full:trueā]
Ok so add a center beam vertically on the back of the wall module and and a member projecting forward to the beam. In this shown configuration it will want to slowly flap like a bird.
[/quote] there are enough versions up, Iām not sure which one you are referring to by āin this shown configurationā
3/4" main plywood
1/2" wasteboard
3/4" workpiece
3/4" sled
~3-3.5" from the sled to the balance point where the chains should attach.
This means that from the face of the legs to where the chain is, we want just over 6 1/4". If you set the motor fixed at this distance, you can work on a good variety of stuff (down to thin sheets and up to about 1")
Adjustability is needed for people who are working with a wider range of things.
There are two different aspects that need to be hammered out
the basic frame design
the attachment of the top beam to the rest of the frame
I think it would help if we discussed these independently. (given the length of this topic, should we create two new topics for these parts?
Iām trying to specify everything exactly, and diagrams/pictures help a lot with showing what Iām talking about.
I think a video of this build (once the pieces were cut) would go pretty quickly and make it very obvious whatās happening, but we need written instructions, i HATE projects where the only instructions are a video.
I also disagree with this. I have built many of building and all of your walls are end grain, not the strongest but when you put the sheeting on it ends up being all tied together. If the plan is to have everybody put sheeting on then there is no point to any of the corner bracing.
Thatās just it, the plan isnāt to have everyone have to put a sheet of plywood on the machine. They can, but they could also put a sheet of foam insulation.
We are trying to not have the plywood be a structural part of the frame if itās there.
several years ago I built myself a computer cabinet (to hold some rack rails, some shelves, and room for a large UPS). I built it with 2x4s and drilled pilot holes for lag screws (2 in one direction, one at right angles for each joint). The lag screws mostly went into end grain.
Even with large lag screws, I found that the started pulling out almost before I finished assembling things. Since then I donāt trust fasteners into end grain as anything other than ways to prevent the end of the wood from moving sideways.
Since we are talking about how to fasten the crosspieces to the legs, and are talking about pieces that will need to hold a fair bit of weight, I would not go into end grain.
In this design, I do it on the verticals, because those joints are not weightbearing, weight is transferred wood to wood and the only thing the fasteners need to do is to keep the verticals from moving sideways. Even then I would drive the screws in with as steep an angle as I could (making them less end-grainish)
I wouldnāt assume that, maybe iām projecting my own biasses here, but if you donāt know how to put 2 pieces of wood together you wouldnāt be interested in a cnc machine where you make pieces of wood that most likely have to come together.
Would it be a bad idea to just scratch all the written parts an go all graphic, like lego or ikea, they make some of the most readable instructions iāve ever seen and there isnāt a written word on them, like this