Backed the original with z, but I rent so it wasnt set up. We bought a new home, but the HOA says my shed must max at 8’x10’ by 7’ high. I was told that I may be able to get a variance for a few more feet.
Questions:
Since the board is 4’,can it be done in 7’?
Originally thought about a bench on the back (8’) wall. How far from the side wall would I want to leave open?
What about a wall-attached version hinged to lift up to the roof? My biggest concern would then be venting (we’re in central Texas).
More info : since I may not have room to build, this Bar Original kit with z may go up for a quick sale, unless y’all can help me find a way. I’d have to go to a smaller footprint cnc router.
there are numerous threads talking about the ability to make a small maslow,
8x10x7 would actually hold the original maslow (brely)
there have been several people who have hinged their machine to the wall or
roof.
if you are not cutting a full 8’ wide board, you shouldn’t have much trouble
(consider lowering the bottom rail a bit to give you more distance above the
workpiece to your top bar)
My machine is under 7’ tall and it works very well for me. I get about 3’ tall of a cutting area, I would need to break that 7’ machine height to get the full 4’. When I built my Maslow, I had to fit it in a 7’x14’ enclosed cargo trailer, and I believe that had a 7’ ceiling.
The other dimension I’d look at is your machine width. At 10’ wide, your machine is going to be the full width of one of your long walls. I’d recommend looking into those hinged machines like @dlang was suggesting, that could go a long way towards giving you some floor space back when the machine isn’t in use.
In another one of David’s posts, he made up this handy spreadsheet to look at how frame dimensions will affect your machine geometry. One of the nice things about the Maslow is that you can change your machine dimensions to fit a space. The trade off when going smaller is that it will limit your usable machine area. Take a minute and play with that spreadsheet to get a feel for what your machine will be capable of.
Working from home going stir crazy so random ideas:
I know of one person in California who leaves his Maslow outdoors (sunny all the time I guess).
Another is on wheels in his garage, and he rolls it out as needed. Doubles as a plywood cart.
I’ve seen another that is attached and swings outwards from the wall, but otherwise the frame is enclosed with a glass front. Possibly put on wheels and roll around as needed. Thinking of an outdoor weatherized Maslow here.
Put in an enclosed work trailer as the above poster has done. Pretty self contained.
Design the shed around Maslow. Perhaps with doors that swing out or down, to give space as needed. I saw a few bicycle sheds that do that.
I have a smallish shed myself (not that small, but still). One thing I thought about doing was separating the motors from the frame and attaching the motors and chain take-up to the rafters of the shed and building a ‘movable’ frame that I could wheel out to an exact spot… maybe use pegs to align the frame to the exact spot on the floor it needs to be.
I was limited to 10 feet AGL by my HOA. With the skids and floor, I had to go with the lowest pitch roof they would make and shorten the side walls to 6 feet.
Here is the frame that doubles as a plywood cart. I was picturing this stretched into the dimensions of a small greenhouse shed, with shed roof, Maslow sled on the outside wall with a glass door. I’ll try and find the enclosed Maslow with the glass door. So end door allows access to plywood storage, counter weights, dust collection, electronics etc. Glass doors open up for insertion of plywood, from the outside wall, normally where sun would enter greenhouse. Yes, this is what happens when I’m locked up at home.
The Nice thing about the Maslow, is it can be Shrunk, or Enlarged to meet your Needs.
You Need at least 1 extra foot per side, longer then the width you want to cut.
and Two Feet Higher than the height you want to cut.
This is because at the top corners of the Sheet, the Angle of the Chains become very Shallow.
So you probably could cut a 7’ x 3’ sheet, with the total FRAME being 9’ x 6’
The calibration would change a bit, because you would be using a reduced size.
The frame uses about a 1.5 foot Slope. So front to back would be 1.5 to 2 feet.
That also helps to reduce the Overall Height.
So you might still be able to get a 4’ Cut height with a 6’ overall height.
Instead of a Full Round Sled, you’d have a “D” shaped sled with the flat at the bottom, so you can put the Cut sheet Lower. Maybe cut 6" off the bottom of the sled.
This will let you lower the cut sheet by 6", and reduce the overall height needed.
I built mine in a 8 x 10 shed it is 79 inches tall the sled travels the whole 4 ft height even though the top bar was lowered 3 inches and the sled travels the whole 8 ft span I have not tryed to cut the whole span yet but I think it will do it
I
Am in the process of installing movable bumpers for the top and bottom so sled can cut all 4 ft without tilting on top and bottom edges later will attempt side bumpers and then attempt full 4 x 8 cut edge to edge and see what happens
By the way mine folds in to the wall
the sled is bottom heavy, so you should be able to cut to and over the top of
your material without additional support, but you need more support on the
bottom.
