Has anyone else gotten calibration lines that aren’t straight straight?
Also they’re shallower at the top than the bottom. Guessing it has to do with sled center of gravity but any ideas are welcome.
Trying to dial this thing in well enough to cut joints/build furniture.
UPDATE: Adjusting the center of gravity worked but dammit if that teeny allen key isn’t a bear.
A picture would help all to dive in. Can you post the
That is a good observation from my view. If is not the Z motor or GrounControl, then that is good place to look.
Kindly also hold your sled on the chains in front of you and report back the direction of tilt.
Yeah but probably not til late tonight/tomorrow. Maslow is in friend’s shop.
That sounds like a sled tilt issue… I assume when you say shallower at the top, you mean the top cut with respect to the bottom cut, not the top of a cut with respect to the bottom of the same cut.
I’ve noticed a little ‘wiggle’ at the start of a lot of my cuts, but if your cuts are crooked, then your initially settings are probably really far off.
If there is some bowing in the peice of plywood I noticed that my calibration cuts would vary a little in depth between the top and bottom cuts. I ended up using some screws to flatten my plywood out.
Regarding the lines not being straight. Did you chamfer or round over the edges of your sled? Or is the bottom of your sled somewhat rough? Before I smoothed out my sled, there was some ‘sticktion’ that the sled had to overcome before moving down. I think this made a similar wiggle to what @madgrizzle described.
I do actually mean within the same cut. Each tic starts shallow and goes a little deeper over the course of the cut.
Ply is screwed down at 4 corners. Any remaining bowing would hardly be dramatic enough to effect depth over such a short distance, me thinks.
Sled bottom is prefinished, glassy smooth w/ rounded edges.
Could it be the bit is slow to penetrate the wood? Is there some form of force beyond the z-axis lead screw helping to keep the router pressed down toward the sled?
You would be surprised. I had to run some screws in the middle of the plywood.
Does this topic seem related?
Hmm, it could be.
Either way that bungee solution is a great way to combat the slop in the router’s z-axis notch.
You might take a look at the z-axis mods I did on my Ridgid. For me, that’s what I have the most dialed in at this point.
Do you happen to have a link to the post you are thinking of?
Thank you! 
…
I recalibrated last night and, due to logistics, I ended up putting my Florida 1/4-inch plywood that I use for calibration on Maslow so the bow was outward. Long story short, big mistake. After the machine cut, I went to measure distance between cuts 1 and 2 and discovered that there was no cut 2 or 5. I had 1, 3 and 4 though.
I reran and watched to see what happened and it turns out that the bow in the top right, even though clamped, was so severe that the top of the sled was tilted so far outward such that router bit never touched the plywood during cuts 2 and 5. Lesson of the day, put plywood so it bows inward and then clamp it.
Today’s lesson is not to listen to the previous lesson. As I discovered, when the 1/4-inch bowed plywood is placed so it bows inward, there’s nothing to hold the bottom edge of the plywood up since it extends out farther than the lip of the bottom beam/leg… I’d post a picture of the cut/scab that resulted from the plywood guillotining down on my ankle, but no one really wants to see it.
Oof! Not fun!