with the quick screw in front, do you pop the router to bit swap, then drop it back in?
loosen thumb screw, raise router up 2 inches, change bit and lower back down. I supposed one could take it out as well.
Without examining the mount/holder/clamp, is it possible for slight variations in alignment of the bit? This is just a question that comes to my mind.
Next time use your printer and print schematic 1:1. Then glue it to wood. It will help You keep good angles.
Edit schematics and draw axis lines in center of all holes. It will be easier to center punch them later.
I have noticed that the 6mm Bore 30T XL Pulley is out everywhere, i did find one from china, but it may take a month before I ever see it.
I could use some guidance on a stand-in part.
Those pulleys are possibly one of the most difficult items of everything on the BOM. If you really want the 30 tooth, it’s probably worth waiting on it. However, if you can source a pulley with a different tooth count, all you have to do is change a setting in Ground Control.
You asked this question in your PM but I think others could benefit from the answer as well:
This is really easy, just requires a little math. The setting you need to change is for Z axis pitch. We need to change this value anyways to switch over the Meticulous Z-axis.
I’ve detailed the math in the Community Garden instructions page:
So, a 32 tooth pulley paired with a 10 tooth has a gear ratio of 3.2. We can plug that into the above formula:
Z = - ( 7.125 * 3.2 )
Z = - 22.8
And for a 40 tooth pulley, we have a gear ratio of 4.
Z = - ( 7.125 * 4 )
Z = - 28.5
I do want to make a quick disclaimer about the 40 tooth pulley. I don’t know of any machines that have used such an extreme gear ratio. Currently a 30 tooth is the recommended one and it seems to work pretty well. A 32 isn’t too much more, so it should be fine. Now, it’s entirely possible that the stock motor won’t care and work just fine with a 40 tooth, but I can’t guarantee that. If you want to test it, by all means, report back your findings either way. It would be greatly beneficial for all of us to know if it’s a possibility. I’ve been planning on testing it myself, but as I’m sure most people around here know, I haven’t had a lot of time for testing lately.
Once you calculate the pitch, you need to confirm that the calculated pitch is correct for the actual machine. I detail the process of dialing that in the instructions:
Let me know if you have any questions, I’m here to help!
Couldn’t you just use a 60T with a 20T to maintain the same gear ratio? The belt would need to be a bit bigger. This is what I have on order for the setup I’m planning.
Thank you for this !
Yes, using a 60 and 20 would also work. I had tried to keep the driven gear small just for simplicity’s sake.
It’s important to realize that there is a lot of things with the maslow (and the
meticulous Z axis) that are the way they are because they were the first thing
tried and it worked (so varients were not tested)
the gear ratio is one of these things. Given the power of the stock motor, I
expect that a MUCH higher gear ratio could be used with the Meticulous Z axis
because the friction it has is trivial compared to the stock setup.
I’ve noticed bits and pieces on back-order in Amazon, but here is a link to a pulley and gear set on amazon.
I just received it the other day:
Hope this helps!
That 60T pulley looks like it has an 8mm bore. The z-axis motor has a 6mm shaft. A shim or spacer would be needed, but you might still end up with some wobble or the set screw may not bite and hold to the shaft.
Ah sh**. haha. Guess I’ll find out how it works once I get it assembled.
and a 8mm brass rod. That was my solution.
I’m most the way through my Z-axis upgrade, but I realize my vacuum hose is set up for the original maslow configuration and the 3d printed housing on the new sled is way too big for the hose. Should I modify the file of the 3d printed housing to narrow the interior clearance of opening, or is there already an adapter somewhere in the forums?
The port on the dust chute is for a 2 1/2" hose if I’m remembering correctly. I tried to make it parametric, so if you modify it in Fusion 360, you should be able to change the port size to meet your needs. I have seen changes like that break models in spectacular ways, though.
It’d easier to just buy a commercially available adapter, there are a ton of those already out there.
Thanks! Excited to see more of your youtube videos for the upgraded maslow!
I wanted to get your opinion/thoughts on this. I have been using a 3D printed router clamp in PLA. As the temp have come up the PLA is degrading. I printed the same clamp in ABS but even with modifications, after printing it interfered with the ring and the design was just not made for the ridgid router. But I learned some things. I have worked up the following after looking at other designs. This is meant to be specific for the Ridgid router, and not interfere with the ring system. Before I waste the ABS please share any thoughts anybody has. Thanks.
Did you put that on thingiverse yet? I think I’d like to print one with PETG.
Adding fat fillets on inside edges is always good practice, as it lowers stress concentrations. Also one of the hex pockets is oriented horizontally, which makes for a thin wall which may not print well. Other than that, I think it looks pretty good! What % infill will you use?
I’ve often thought about printing a thin walled mold and then casting a hard polyurethane clamp. It might be hard to crack off the mold with all the layer lines if a good release agent isn’t used.