Getting ready to build the vertical frame at the woodshop. From using Dlang’s frame calculator, it seems like a 12’ by 10’ frame is the most ideal.
Do you think this is the correct size frame?
What frame tilt is working best so far?
What arm configuration is working best so far?
Should I add risers at each belt end to keep the belt straight coming off the sled and even with the waste board?
Thanks
Tim Seidlitz wrote:
Getting ready to build the vertical frame at the woodshop. From using Dlang’s frame calculator, it seems like a 12’ by 10’ frame is the most ideal.
Do you think this is the correct size frame?
it should work, we are seeing recent reports of errors within a few inches of
the sides with this sort of frame, but are still testing
What frame tilt is working best so far?
20 degrees +
What arm configuration is working best so far?
not sure on this one
Should I add risers at each belt end to keep the belt straight coming off the sled and even with the waste board?
as long as the risers don’t add flex, we think this will work well, but there
isn’t enough testing to say difinitively.
David Lang
With the emphasis on the +
I’m currently at 22 degrees, and If I could I’d like to go more.
I’m also at 23 degrees and during calibration my sled was lifting off at the bottom. I’m using risers for my anchor points. The risers may be contributing to the router sled lifting because there’s not as much downward pressure. I didn’t have any issues during cutting but I may not have noticed. also I have only made my first cut today so I am not experienced at all but personally considering tilting my frame back
I had a vertical frame for a while. I had some issues. I would make sure your frame is really stiff/well supported at both the top and bottom.
erm okay, my sled was lifting case of a different issue. i accidentally rotated my frame sideways causing my risers to be misaligned and even anchor points was above the height of my arm.
I’m having an issue with a vertical calibration - the bottom of my sled is lifting as well. I have kinda jammed it up into the wall and rafters, so will release that and try again, but should the belt anchors be tight enough so they don’t rotate to follow the sled, or should they be able to rotate on the bolts to follow the machine?
@kyleschoen @md8n , if I remember correctly, didnt you two experiment with different arm configuration on a vertical frame? Are you still seeing sled lift with your different arm configuration?
Curious is a brick on the bottom would help, akin to how the classic had bricks, though those were more for downward force
Ben wrote:
I’m having an issue with a vertical calibration - the bottom of my sled is
lifting as well. I have kinda jammed it up into the wall and rafters, so will
release that and try again, but should the belt anchors be tight enough so
they don’t rotate to follow the sled, or should they be able to rotate on the
bolts to follow the machine?
they should rotate to follow the machine.
David Lang
Thanks again David! Slowly getting this tuned in. So far calibration values are looking SO much better than before. I also un wedged the frame, and while it’s early in the calibration process, the sled lifting issue seems to have gone. Crossing fingers.
Yes, the order did help a lot with vertical lift, but seeing some horizontal lift when jogging. Haven’t made a cut in a while so not sure if I just traded one for another.
I could see that helping, but the weight of the M4 causes accuracy issues near the top of the workpiece and I’d imagine adding a brick would make that worse.