Which Router to Buy (Europe)

the video should make it more clear.

the z-axis moves the router depth, and on the Ridgid it is a turning screw that has a tab that locks to the spindle and can still be turned, raising and lowering the spindle in its compression collar.

Normal hand use of the router would have an operator lock the collar very tightly, preventing z-axis adjustment during operation.

MaslowCNC use has the compression collar tight, but still able to move the spindle when the adjustment screw is turned by the Z-axis motor. The router is in the compression collar securely, but still able to move.

any alternate router needs to be able to move safely while in operation via a screw motion, with enough clearance to mount the z-axis flange to the sled and with the z-axis motor and adaptor able to adjust the nut that turns the screw that moves the router up and down.

http://forums.maslowcnc.com/t/sled-seems-to-like-the-bottom-of-the-frame/457

Ok, how about this one. It has a depth stop.

Manual is here, see page 7 for the depth-stop.

It has a winder handle and a micro winder handle. Would it work if the z-axis motor was connected to one of those?
Do you see issues with this one?

.mm

The Tritons were discussed on the old forum http://www.maslowcnc.com/oldforums#!/general:euro-router-options
should work I think.

2 things,

  1. this is more expensive than the recommended router.

  2. adjustment screw is pretty high up on the tool. It should fit, but the Z-Axis Bracket might end up with more slew in it , similar to this. (This video is an old version of software, from beta days so ignore commentary on those aspects, I only mean to show the Z-axis movement)

you don’t want a plunge router with a depth stop, those are designed to move
freely until they hit the stop and have springs to push the router away from the
workpiece.

what you need is a router that changes it height when you turn the height knob
without you needing to push it down to the workpiece. Usually this is going to
be a fixed-base router that you loosen the clamp on

So I bit the bullet and ordered the AEG for now. The Triton won’t arrive in time for my days off, when I can put my Maslow together, next week.

I’m still curious if anyone has used the Triton TRA001 because it looks like it’s a better bang for the buck than the AEG and costs the same on Amazon.de (around 340 EUR).

Does anyone know if the user @metrowave, who commented about the TRA001 in this old forum’s thread, is around here, maybe under a different alias?

.mm

Something to consider - if you’re a serious enough woodworker to want a Maslow you’ll likely want a standalone router. While you can get an extra base and remove the motor from the Maslow that will get old really fast. Just like the serious router table guys you’ll end up dedicating the router to the individual machines, plus the one for hand held projects. For example I plan to dig out the old Craftsman and round over the edges (could be interesting, rounding off cheap plywood…) on the second-stage temporary sled I’m planning for the next shop-time adventure. Darned summer chores and honeydo projects.

I haven’t seen any discussion in this forum about real CNC spindles - a 2.2KW spindle, VFD, and mount are within spitting distance of these prices, although being from outside the EU I don’t know what VAT will do to that. Routers aren’t really made for hours and hours of CNC use and (from what I read) will burn up bearings and brushes on a regular basis. You do end up with the roll your own Z axis issue, but there’s already a design here plus the ready made ones from the usual sources. Water cooled spindles are reportedly quieter, but you’ll need to deal with the plumbing and (for cold-climate residents) preventing freezing.

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Dude you’re always reading my mind. Was eyeing a water cooled spindle last night.

Just add rubbing alcohol to the water to prevent freezing. Get the 90% since it’s already cut with distilled water already.

remember, those CNC spindles are designed for metal cutting, not for wood.

speeds and feeds. :slight_smile:

Those CNC spindles are used on wood everyday. You control the speed and the feed. They aren’t just on. They are variable and do as they are told. People is then for small wood Diy CNC routers everyday.

You can get small ones like used on the X-Carve

And a made for woodworking 2hp router will eat through 1/2" aluminum like wood all day. Just causes a lil more but wear.

Or blue windshield washer squirter juice. Pink RV antifreeze might be even better, know both are used in CO2 lasers, although they may cause some electrical leakage from the high voltage.

@dlang - second iRoc999, they’re marketed to and used by woodworkers all the time, and standard equipment on many commercial CNC wood routers. Way quieter than a brushed router (for those who have neighbors, work during the day, and who aren’t married to an audiologist) and as much power as you want to pay for. Like you say, feeds and speeds, plus the appropriate bits.

The Makita RT0700CJ looks like an interesting small machine.

I’m a bit puzzled how to mount the motor for z-axis, still i would like to keep this router in mind

EDIT: With it’s optional plunge base it seems like it could be a workable option
https://www.protoolsdirect.co.uk/sites/default/files/imagecache/product_full/1955630SL500_AA300_.jpg

The standard unit’s depth is run by a rack-and-pinion, so the z-axis motor might drive it if mounted horizontally to attach to the pinion shaft.

Wouldn’t that require more motor power to push the bit into the material?
To me it seems like the plunge base is geared down an extra bit by the threaded rod.
Though i can’t find any detailed info on that. So i could be wrong.
However it would save about €70 on the cost of that optional plunge base… hmmmm a 500W china spindle is $80 … so many things to consider . :slight_smile:

One could try without the plunge base and buy it if the experiment failed :slight_smile:. The gearing of the plunge base would add finer resolution to the z adjustment, though.

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going to keep an eye on the second hand market for thisone

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I have a triton attached to my Maslow. the Z Axis works well, the only problem I have at the moment is that the motor end of the router is quite heavy, so when you wind the bit out the sled starts to lift off the work surface. I think I’m going to try a third brick at the top of the sled. I have the Z axis motor mounted on the top of the router so it goes in and out as the bit goes in and out. I’m just using a bit of wood for now, I may 3D print something later. I think I added details of the mount on the router pages.

I machined out a 10mm coupler to fit the depth spindle, as well, as it wasn’t big enough.

TREND T11E
Hello, I got started with my Maslow build about 2 months ago and ground to a halt on electronics.
So, I concentrated on the sled and router. Initially I was going to build it for a copy of a Makita trimmer (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KATSU-3-8-1-4-Electric-Hand-Trimmer-Wood-Laminator-Router-Joiners-Tool-220V/281944547910?epid=6009680146&hash=item41a5346246:g:dTYAAOSwlMFZKfh3) as I have one in the shop. But, it’s really light and small, so I opted to sled my Trend T11E. (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trend-T11EK-2000W-1-2in-Variable-Speed-Workshop-Router-240V-/232340357688).
The Trend has a Z-axis that looks like it will be relatively easy to hook up to a drive, and the router weighs a lot. My thinking was that I may not need to add as much weight to the sled and as such would have space for balancing the centre of Gravity. Unfortunately I’m still struggling with Motor connectivity, so can not give any feedback yet to my design. Will update when it works! If anyone else has used either of the above, I’d be very interested to hear your results/outcome.
Cheers,
Miles

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