the z-axis moves the router depth, and on the Ridgid it is a turning screw that has a tab that locks to the spindle and can still be turned, raising and lowering the spindle in its compression collar.
Normal hand use of the router would have an operator lock the collar very tightly, preventing z-axis adjustment during operation.
MaslowCNC use has the compression collar tight, but still able to move the spindle when the adjustment screw is turned by the Z-axis motor. The router is in the compression collar securely, but still able to move.
any alternate router needs to be able to move safely while in operation via a screw motion, with enough clearance to mount the z-axis flange to the sled and with the z-axis motor and adaptor able to adjust the nut that turns the screw that moves the router up and down.
this is more expensive than the recommended router.
adjustment screw is pretty high up on the tool. It should fit, but the Z-Axis Bracket might end up with more slew in it , similar to this. (This video is an old version of software, from beta days so ignore commentary on those aspects, I only mean to show the Z-axis movement)
you don’t want a plunge router with a depth stop, those are designed to move
freely until they hit the stop and have springs to push the router away from the
what you need is a router that changes it height when you turn the height knob
without you needing to push it down to the workpiece. Usually this is going to
be a fixed-base router that you loosen the clamp on
Something to consider - if you’re a serious enough woodworker to want a Maslow you’ll likely want a standalone router. While you can get an extra base and remove the motor from the Maslow that will get old really fast. Just like the serious router table guys you’ll end up dedicating the router to the individual machines, plus the one for hand held projects. For example I plan to dig out the old Craftsman and round over the edges (could be interesting, rounding off cheap plywood…) on the second-stage temporary sled I’m planning for the next shop-time adventure. Darned summer chores and honeydo projects.
I haven’t seen any discussion in this forum about real CNC spindles - a 2.2KW spindle, VFD, and mount are within spitting distance of these prices, although being from outside the EU I don’t know what VAT will do to that. Routers aren’t really made for hours and hours of CNC use and (from what I read) will burn up bearings and brushes on a regular basis. You do end up with the roll your own Z axis issue, but there’s already a design here plus the ready made ones from the usual sources. Water cooled spindles are reportedly quieter, but you’ll need to deal with the plumbing and (for cold-climate residents) preventing freezing.
Those CNC spindles are used on wood everyday. You control the speed and the feed. They aren’t just on. They are variable and do as they are told. People is then for small wood Diy CNC routers everyday.
Or blue windshield washer squirter juice. Pink RV antifreeze might be even better, know both are used in CO2 lasers, although they may cause some electrical leakage from the high voltage.
@dlang - second iRoc999, they’re marketed to and used by woodworkers all the time, and standard equipment on many commercial CNC wood routers. Way quieter than a brushed router (for those who have neighbors, work during the day, and who aren’t married to an audiologist) and as much power as you want to pay for. Like you say, feeds and speeds, plus the appropriate bits.
Wouldn’t that require more motor power to push the bit into the material?
To me it seems like the plunge base is geared down an extra bit by the threaded rod.
Though i can’t find any detailed info on that. So i could be wrong.
However it would save about €70 on the cost of that optional plunge base… hmmmm a 500W china spindle is $80 … so many things to consider .
I have a triton attached to my Maslow. the Z Axis works well, the only problem I have at the moment is that the motor end of the router is quite heavy, so when you wind the bit out the sled starts to lift off the work surface. I think I’m going to try a third brick at the top of the sled. I have the Z axis motor mounted on the top of the router so it goes in and out as the bit goes in and out. I’m just using a bit of wood for now, I may 3D print something later. I think I added details of the mount on the router pages.
I machined out a 10mm coupler to fit the depth spindle, as well, as it wasn’t big enough.