I used downcutting bits and crosscutting bits. Since the z-axis in the original configuration has some slop due to the connector with the orange spring thing to the screw as well as the movement of the screw itself, the bit was pulled towards the board when cutting. This was quite significant in my case, more than 1/8" in total. I couldn’t get reproducible z-height with that setup.
Now I am using the 3D-printed router holder and everything is pretty accurate. Fantastic upgrade.
Check out this link.
Works like a charm, although it takes a little to get it printed and setup.
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